Bali is going through an amazing culinary journey. Not that many years ago the food offerings in Bali were mostly devoid of taste and value, both locals and foreigners operating restaurants that they believed presented cuisines of the world. Only one thing was missing, and that was the professional knowledge that can only come by experience, having been trained at the highest level.
The Bali of today boasts of many top-flight chefs. As many as can often be found in cities four times its size. Most, of course, work in the ever-increasing number of 5 star and boutique hotels and luxury villa complexes that seem to be opening almost monthly, all over the island. Others are finding their own style of peace in Bali, opening restaurants of their own, at both ends of the scale, classic dining down to great value mid range dining. As important is the ever increasing number of experienced restaurateurs who are arriving, to drive the revolution!
The BaliEats web site [www.balieats.com] now lists restaurants of some 54 different cuisines, the majority of which present high quality food at an amazingly low cost. During 2007 another 85 new restaurants opened in Bali that were of sufficient interest and quality to feature in my regular column in The Bali Advertiser. The following is a summary of the best of them.
Because of the high concentration of large 5 star hotels in the Nusa Dua and Tandjung Benoa area there has always been a lack of outside credible options. Needless to say many of the hotels have 5 or 6 outlets offering a variety of cuisines in order to keep their guests on the premises. The old city used to offer a range of moderately priced options, to tempt guests outside of the comfort of their hotels. This area suffered most from the Bali calamities, earlier in the decade, and only now shows signs of new life, but their entrance from the Nusa Dua hotel complex had currently been sealed off.
The Bali Collection replaced the Nusa Dua Gallery but has not been over-endowed with custom. One of its better restaurants, Tepi Laut, has moved recently to a more prominent position close to the main entrance, changed its name to Gedong Cafe and presents great value high quality cuisine. Their Giant Seafood Grill is one of their most popular offerings. In the old village the new Laguna Garden is typical of most, offering many different cuisines, what we call a tourist menu. Originally all menus in this area were in 3-4 languages, now almost without exception a Russian translation has been added.
At one of the newest hotels, Nusa Dua Novotel, which borders the golf course, is The Square, which considering the name is a strangely oval space with quite a range of modern and innovative cuisine at very reasonable prices for a hotel, Pomegranate-glazed Quail an example. Down in Tandjung Benoa is Lucky Duck, which not surprisingly features duck on the menu, done many different ways. Whilst the Duck Burger and the Duck Pizza are most unusual, Roast Duck, Confit of Duck and a Grilled Duck with an orange glaze are far more traditional. There is also their version of Ubuds Crispy Duck.
Tuban saw the arrival of old Kuta stalwart, Mini. Almost as big as the still functioning original but modern, clean and sparkling. This Mini has the same menu mix of live seafood, grilled or pan-fried, a myriad of accompanying dipping sauces, and a full menu of Indonesian Chinese favourites, all at reasonable prices. Their Mixed Seafood Special of Prawns, Fish, Crab, Squid, Clams and Lobster meat at Rp. 94,000++ is a showstopper!
Ifiori opened on the site of the ill-fated Wet, in Jln. Kartika Plaza, in front of Waterbom Park. It is a two level restaurant offering good value Italian food, and under the same management as Pappas in Legian. Further along at the Ramayana complex is Gabah, which was initially under the direction of Patrick Chauchereau [ex Lola].
At Kuta all of the restaurants that opened were out on the new Bypass, Sunset Road, although many of those who originally opened there have already closed. The later ones are more grand and with more experience behind them. Sushi Tei is a branch of Japans largest Sushi franchise which includes the first sushi train in Bali. The a la carte selection is enormous, some traditional others modern and with unusual combinations. The Grill House is Korean and features Bulgogi, marinated beef that you cook at the table, or you can grill Modemgui [Japanese style Shasliks], Sweet Beef or Pork Ribs [Doeji Galbi] on the grill in the centre of your table.
Harmony looks like a Chinese restaurant and it is except that all the meat [beef, pork, duck and chicken] and seafood [fish, prawns and squid] dishes are vegetarian versions thereof. They are all made from soya bean but presented as the real thing, and in many cases with the authentic sauces and flavouring they almost deceive. There is Beijing Smoked Duck, Babi Panggang [roasted pork], Cumi Tong Yam [squid with a tangy Cantonese sauce], and even imitation sardines, Ikan Sardencis with chilli and tomato, which happens to be just about their most popular dish.
The Seminyak-Kerobokan area had its usual rush of new restaurants, some totally new but most replacing previously failed ones. The Chat Café, under the guiding hands of Marinos [ex Mykonos Tavernas] led the way with a café/lounge bar that worked from the first week. Apart from cheap tasty food they also offer free internet, as do an ever-increasing number of cafes and small restaurants in Bali, though so far mostly in the Seminyak and Ubud areas. Just down the road is Café Marzano, totally Italian, featuring wood-fired pizzas, pastas galore and many Italians.
Nirvana opened on the site of the old Spy Bar, a stylish bar at the front and French restaurant in the rear garden courtyard. Across the road was the immediately successful San Marco Osteria, which closed prematurely due the tragic sudden death of Mr. Sin.
On the main road the old Afghan restaurant re-opened as Kholifar with similar offerings of Middle Eastern cuisine such as entrees of Lahem Bilajeen [three crisp fried pastry shells stuffed with a spicy lamb mince], mains of Chicken or Mutton Vegetable Korma [with onions, potatoes, green chillies, garlic and ginger, all slowly cooked] or a high fibre vegetarian dish, Chole Maslah [chickpeas, tomato, onion and garlic]. All to be enjoyed whilst seated amongst Arabian and Persian carpets. The Swedish Veranda became the Brazilian Rio [under Finnish management] offering a full Brazilian Churrasco [5 salad starters followed by 7 different meats all cut from the giant skewer, after being cooked in the flames. Includes a Pork in Marsala and a perfect Australian tenderloin, as well as an interesting selection of a la carte items.
Kerobokan hosted its usual rash of new restaurants, many of which have already closed. Those remaining include Med with a Pecan-crusted Chicken with a honey orange cream sauce or Moroccan Prawns with a tabouleh cous-cous and a spicy harisa, and Sasa offering entrees such as Sepplioline alla Griglia con Patate e Insalata [grilled baby squids served with a warm potato salad] or a home-made pasta such as Fettuccine con Gamberi [with king prawns with wine and herbs]. Café Bali opened in colonial style premises next to big brother, Khaima, offering entrees from around the world.
Others on Eat Street included Fresh, a sushi bar operated by the ex-manager of the very popular trendy Wasabi of a few years back [extraordinary California Rolls wrapped around Foie Gras, duck liver and mango with hazelnuts, as well as other options including Spicy Butterfish or Salmon, Scallop and Cream Cheese]. Mezzo became only the 2nd on the street to offer cool air-conditioned premises as well as the first with a rear garden courtyard. It has simple food well presented, including very cheap full breakfasts, and special coffee blends, including Ethiopian, making it a place to constantly return to.
Grocer & Grind provided something very different with its very Australian bistro style and accompanying deli. Normal egg breakfasts; Benedict, Florentine or just Eggs with choice of bacon, lamb sausage, mushrooms or rosti. For lunch; snacks, salads or a perfect Panini on Ciabattini. Dinner is all change with casual bistro dining such as their Prawn Cherviche, juicy prawns tossed with sliced mango in coriander, meaty Lamb Sausages or large very tender Lamb Shanks.
In the Sentosa Villas was Blossom, something so new for Bali! From the designers of Australias trendy Longrain restaurants there are similarities but this one has style and class! It began with wonderful Thai food from Will Meyrick and quickly established itself as one of Asias finest! Within a few short months Blossom achieved what many others fail to do at all, yet a management decision saw the departure of their chef. A ready replacement was fortunately available; Chris Patzold, well known to Balis diners after being the original chef at Ku de Ta [back when the food was both great and cheap] and subsequently at Axiom. The most popular Thai offerings have been retained but now with the addition of the Patzold signature dishes. Best of both worlds!
On the Petitenget side was Eropa Warung with French food at warung prices and Da Margherita with classical Italian dishes, also very reasonably priced. Dahana, still a secret to most in Bali, was the surprise of this area. It is a private house and gallery that hosts a family-style Japanese restaurant in a garden setting. Almost hidden behind a white wall and private entrance.
Around the back of the Kerobokan Jail a totally authentic Hungarian restaurant to be found, Bistro Budapest, featuring Gulyasleves [Goulash] in every form. The famous soup combines beef, carrots and potato in a rich paprika broth, but there are also many forms with stewed meat; Sertesporkoct [pork], Paprikascsirke [chicken], Marhaporkoct [beef], and for the vegetarians, Gombaporkoct with mushrooms.
Renon, Denpasar, saw the opening of Kowloon, quickly changing its name to Feyloon. Genuine Cantonese food, specializing in seafood from the many live tanks around the walls.
Sanur continued its revival. New restaurants such as the Russian Slavyanka offer a new variety in fine dining [Shaved Frozen Venison with a pinch of salt, Caviar of every type, Chicken Livers with apple and onion and the Ukranian Borsh [a hearty soup of pork, potatoes cabbage, onion, carrot and beetroot]. SixPoint opened with a very International menu [they are an offshoot of Papas] that included Grilled Turkey Breast. Coriander has a range of Thai cuisine, Red and Green Curries, Tod Mun Pla [fish cakes], Yum Neau [seared marinated beef strips with cooling cucumber], among its International offerings. Piccadilly replaced the long gone Mykonos, more of a pub than restaurant. The Porch Café offers wonderful sandwiches, salads and small daily specials.
The revolution in Ubud slowed to a walk. No wonder with so many new places opening over the past 5 years. In Sanggingan is Man Maru opened, mainly Japanese [wonderful terryaki] with a few spicy Korean offerings [sliced lotus bulb]. Up on the hill at Penestanan was one of the finds of the year. Mendez, longtime personal chef for Warwick Purser, opened his own small warung offering Goat Legs and Beef Ribs, using old Yogya recipes, simmering for hours then marinating in Javanese spice pastes. Sweet tender meat, wonderful value in simple surroundings. $10 for two, what value!
Candi Dasa continued to slowly get its act together. The revamped Rama CandiDasa opened Garpu, under the direction of Patrick Chauchereau [ex Lola]. At that stage the food presented was quite exceptional, wonderful breads baked on the premises, pates en croute, etc. Now we wait with baited breath for the opening of Patricks new bistro restaurant in Seminyak, Feb 2008! A quiet achiever in the northern part of Candi Dasa was Aquaria, a New Zealand operation with just a choice of two dishes, entrée, main and dessert, for lunch and dinner [one always a vegetarian option] at their pleasant small boutique hotel. Simple food and great value in a pleasant relaxed location.
Amed continued its opening and re-opening of small locally operated warungs. The successful Wayans Warung opened a 2nd, Café Cest Bon, opposite Santai, TPC became Maharasti II, the rebuilt Vienna Beach now offers a smart restaurant with new immaculately clean kitchen, and some of the best beach views in the area. For something completely different another New Zealand operation began at Sails [eventually to be a part of the Horizon Resort], on the headland between Lipah Beach and Lean. It has sensational ocean views. Some Western [Steaks and Ribs], some Indo Chinese [Chicken Mandarin] but all cooked a little different from other local places, a cut above the rest!
Lovina saw the demise of a few and the arrival of a whole host of newbies; Amadeus has an Austrian influence, Wiener Schnitchels and Goulash on certain days. Down at the beach is a mall place with value, Tropis Bistro, with the chef and menu from the old Kwizien [Pate des Ardennes, Steak Rocquefort, etc.]. Surprising newcomer is Chonos, a BBQ restaurant with a difference! A tray of lava stones are inlaid into the top of smart wooden tables, seated above a gas ring. Order your meats and show what you can do. This place is going to become very popular! Congrats to people who dare to be different!
Once again, 2008 promises much. A new Thai restaurant, opposite Gado-Gado, and a French Bistro with one of Balis greatest chefs, both in Seminyak. To cap it all off the return of the prodigal one more time, small select Thai, Vietnamese and Malay Indian menus at Will Meyricks new venture [site of the old Esmerada] in Jln Petitenget, Kerobokan.
Bali just keeps on getting better, and the great value remains the same!
Gerry Williams
gerry@balieats.com
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