Legian Street Hotel Guide

Jalan Legian is the main street that runs north- south all the way from Kuta to Seminyak ( although its called Jalan Seminyak when you get in that neighborhood ). All the hotels listed in this guide are fairly close to each other and are approximately 5-10 minutes walk from the beach, same distance to the shopping street at Kuta Square. Lower Jalan Legian has plenty of bars and restaurants and well as souvenir shops. The Bounty ship and Paddy’s are 2 well known bars that attract newcomers.

Lingga Murthi Hotel (0361) 751878)

Jalan Legian Banjar Pengabetan
Lmhotel@hotmail.com

Located on lower Jalan Legian between Poppies I & II across from the Prawita Hotel.

The Lingga Murthi Hotel is down a small gang ( alley ) used by locals and has rooms on 2 & 3 separate levels.

You have a parking area in front with the reception and lounge test restaurant area.

Rooms are clean and you have a choice between A/C or fan. D�cor is typical sterile white tile with a shared porch area outside and bamboo furniture.

Bathroom is basic but reasonable with bathtub and shower.

Facilities include :Telephone, Satellite TV, Karaoke, Laundry service, Bar & Restaurant, available safety deposit box, Tour service.

Breakfast is included along with tax. Drinking water provided.

This hotel is good for people wanting close access to Jalan Legian in the Kuta area with slightly more comfort than at a budget guest house.

Double Single
1st Class 150,000 150,000
Standard 100,000 100,000
Extra Bed 50,000


Maha Bharata (0361) 756754

Jalan Legian Br. Pengabetan

Located down a small gang (alley ) close to the Lingga Murthi Hotel and on the opposite side of the street to the Prawita Hotel. There is a large parking area in front and behind a row of trees is located a single 3-storey block of rooms. Reception is at the right side of the driveway. To the left of the driveway is the breakfast area.

I looked at the at a standard room that was basic and bare looking, but had a TV. Bathtub, white tile floor, bamboo furniture on the porch.

The room was clean and okay for a short term budget tourist.
Close to Jalan Legian. Slight noise from alley traffic. Internet Caf� opposite. Also close to the shops and Bounty Ship bar.

Fan 1 Person 1 Night 50,000
Fan 2 Person 1 Night 75,000
A/C TV, Hot water 1 Night 150,000
A/C The 1 Night 125,000

Discount 10% for more than 1 week.

Includes breakfast and tax.



Sari Yasa Samudra

Located down gang (alley ) across from Sari Club bomb site and Poppies Lane II.

20 rooms on 1 level in 2 rows of bungalows. Six of the rooms have A/C. Rooms have red and white tile floors and look clean . The atmosphere here is quite relaxing. The owner who likes to be called Mama lives on site at the back and talks non-stop.

Cute little rooms with porch and tidy bathroom.

No special d�cor inside just plain white walls and floors.

Fan 1 Person 1 Night 60,000
Fan 2 Person 1 Night 80,000
A/C 1 Person 1 Night 90,000
A/C 2 Person 1 Night 150,000

5,000rp discount for day for 1 week.

Breakfast included.



Paradiso Hotel (0361 752270)

Jalan Legian #61
Paradiso_bali@hotmail.com

Located on lower Jalan Legian next to Prawita Hotel ( same side ) it has 25 rooms. Hotel runs directly back from the street and is fairly quiet and relaxing the further back you get. Parking lot and reception at front close to main road.

Private terrace, bath/shower, hot water, swimming pool, car rental, tours.

Long row of single storey rooms with porch and bamboo furniture.

The rear pool is next to newer 2 storey rooms on 2 sides. Rooms are quiet, nice and very clean. The pool area feels secluded and is far enough from the street where noise won’t affect visitors.

Facilities include: A/C rooms with telephone, private terrace, bath/ shower, hot water, pool, car rental and tours.

A/C Single 1 Night $30
A/C Double 1 Night $35
A/C Extra Bed 1 Night $15
Fan Single 1 Night $20
Fan Double 1 Night $25
Fan Extra Bed 1 Night $12

Breakfast included.

This place is nicer than many of the other cheap hotels in the vicinity. The price in dollars reflects this. Not sure I’d want to pay $35 for a double though when you are so close to cheaper options. If $35 is inside your budget this place is an okay choice. Right on Jalan Legian, 5 minutes to the beach, surrounded by t-shirt and souvenir shops as well as bars and restaurants.


Hotel Prawita (0361) 751838

Jalan Legian #63

Located next to the Paradiso Hotel the Prawita has 39 rooms in 2 and 3 storey blocks.

This place is unique is layout and design with a street side restaurant, another restaurant under a central bamboo roof and a bar beneath a pond!

Rooms are clean and comfortable. This hotel is quieter than a budget guest house and would be good for a family or a traveler who wants some level of comfort without spending way too much.

Gardens in this place are overflowing and are cared for by the owner. Traditional carvings decorate the property as well as door frames to rooms. I find the doorways to be small but this is a small point.

The Prawita has fish ponds. The street side restaurant is shady and pleasant, its usually empty too so service is no problem. Reception is close to the front of the hotel adjacent to the restaurant and the parking is down a side alley at the back.

The pool is surrounded on 3 sides by rooms and looks quite large and clean. It has a wooden deck area and recliners.

Facilities include: Pool, A/C, Telephone, TV, Hot water, Private Balcony.

Swimming pool view Garden view
Single 1 Night $45 $40
Double 1 Night $50 $45
Suite 1 Night $70 $70
Extra Bed 1 Night $10 $10

Although prices are quoted in dollars be sure to negotiate. The manager quoted me a price of 160,000rp per night for a Double.

Breakfast included.



Aquarius Star Hotel (0361) 751762

Jalan Legian #116
Aquariushotel@yahoo.com

Located directly opposite Prawita Hotel. The Aquarius has a restaurant and bar on the first and second levels on the street serving a range of food including Mexican, sandwiches and pizza.

Walking directly back through the bar you come to the reception desk and you will pass 2 rows of bungalows on the way to the pool area.

The bungalows are neat and tidy with a decent bed, writing table and a couple of chairs on the porch. There are an assortment of options for extras including A/C, fridge, TV etc. but a standard room is perfectly okay. In the dry season ( June-October) you don’t need A/C anyway.

Rooms go back quite away off the street and the place feels quite tranquil for somewhere right on Jalan Legian.

The bathroom looks a bit nicer than some of the guests houses I visit, you actually might enjoy taking shower here.

Standard room ( Bungalow or 2nd floor)
Breakfast, Drinking Water, Bath Tub, Hot water, Shower Screen ( 2nd Floor)
Standard Single 1 Night 70,000
Standard Double 1 Night 85,000
Standard Triple 1 Night 100,000

Superior Room

A/C, Breakfast, Drinking Water, Bath Tub, Hot water, Fridge available for Executive Superior.

Superior Single 1 Night 145,000
Superior Double 1 Night 155,000
Superior Triple 1 Night 170,000

Deluxe Room

A/C, Breakfast, Drinking Water, Bath Tub, Hot water, Fridge, TV

Deluxe Single 1 Night 160,000
Deluxe Double 1 Night 170,000
Deluxe Triple 1 Night 180,000

Deluxe Room (New Room)

A/C, Breakfast, Drinking Water, Bath Tub, Hot water, Fridge, TV, Shower Screen

Deluxe New Room Single 1 Night 165,000
Deluxe New Room Double 1 Night 175,000
Deluxe New Room Triple 1 Night 185,000

10,000rp discount per day if guests stay 1 week on all rooms.



Puri Rama Cottages (0361) 751057

Jalan Legian Gang Troppo Zone

Located across from Sari Club bomb site down small gang ( alley ).

This place is very pleasant. Cream colored buildings with central garden give a very relaxing feeling.

80 rooms on 2 and 3 levels spread around a fairly decent sized site. The owner is on property and is friendly. The rooms are simple and clean, in fact there’s not too much to choose between the rooms here and a guest house like Ronta Bungalows on Poppies II. The quality in the place lies in the extras like having 2 swimming pools, the exterior feel and the lack of noise.

Bathroom didn’t look too appetizing.

The property seems well maintained with the front section of rooms are 3 storey with a central pool.

This hotel would be good for mid range tourists who don’t need a super fancy place, but would like to relax at their hotel. The Puri Rama has its own restaurant too.

Close access to shopping on Jalan Legian and nightlife of Kuta.

Single 1 Night $26
Double 1 Night $32
Extra bed 1 Night $10

All rates subject to 15% tax and service charge. Breakfast not included.

I talked with the owner after getting the rate card and she said prices are negotiable.



Mama’s Beach Inn (0361) 751994

Located down small gang across from Sari Club bomb site. Mama’s Beach Inn is across the gang from Puri Rama Hotel.

8 rooms on one level. This place is low key and simple.

Bungalows are typical low budget guest house type with white tile floor, porch with chairs and decently clean bathroom. All 6 Standard rooms

Surya Beach Inn & Caf� ( 0361) 751054)

Jalan Legian Br. Pengabetan

Located down the same small gang as Puri Rama Hotel and next door to Mama’s Beach Inn.

12 rooms on 1 level. Small caf� with moderate prices.

Cute little place with tidy rooms and small pool. Nicer than Mama’s Beach Inn next door but a step down from the Puri Rama Hotel across the street.

Handy for those wanting to explore the Kuta area on foot. Plenty of shops and bars close by.

Tradition Balinese stonework entrance with tiled structure and roof to the left side as you enter. This is the reception area. Bungalows have elaborate stonework and carved decorations around the doors and windows.

Small tiled porch area with bamboo furniture.

Rooms are simple and have TV and fridge.
Bathrooms have handheld shower and bathtub.

Pool looks clean although the area surrounding it doesn’t afford too much room.

I Person 1 Night 100,000
2 Person 1 Night 125,000
1 Person 1 Week 700,000

Discount of 20% after 1 month.



Kamini Beach Inn (0361) 761629

Jalan Legian Gang Panin Bank

Located down small gang across from Sari Club site. Kamini Beach Inn is situated a few yards along from Surya Beach Inn across the street.

Budget place with a 3-storey block of rooms. Only the lower 2 floors and 10 rooms are being used.

Rooms have a fan, white tiled floor, clean with small porch. Bathrooms are average with hand held shower and bath-tub.

The owner, Agung lives on site.

I found the place to be quiet and friendly with a pool in the rear of the property.

Breakfast area located next to reception at the front.

This place feels like a guest house with a pool basically.

I Person 1 Night 100,000
2 Person 1 Night 150,000
1 Person 1 Week 10% Discount
2 Person 1 Week 10% Discount

Breakfast % tax included.



Tri Sakti Cottages (0361) 761060

Jalan Legian, 7 Puri Kama Lane
Trisakti@telkom.com

Located next to Kamini Beach Inn on small gang
.

14 rooms on 3 levels.

Small shop in front offering drinks and snacks, reception directly behind. The parking area is next to reception.

This place has a relaxed atmosphere. Rooms are in one long block with a garden area to the right going in, also another block at the end of the garden behind small temple structure.

Rooms simple
and clean with red and white tile floors, fan or A/C and refrigerator.

Bathroom
was decently clean and came with bath tub and hot water.

I asked a group of young Aussie guys what they thought of the place and they said “Best place ever.” “Cheap, same as every other joint.” “Could use a TV.”

I’m sure you can negotiate a better rate than the ones advertised too.

Fan Single 1 Night $10
Fan Double 1 Night $12
Fan Extra Bed 1 Night $3

A/C Single 1 Night $12
A/C Double 1 Night $15
A/C Extra Bed 1 Night $4

Breakfast included. All prices subject to 21% tax and service.




Dewi Sri Cottages (0361) 752555

Jalan Legian
Dewisri@indo.net.id

Located at the end of the gang where Kamini Beach and Tri Sakti are this hotel is definitely the choice place. Its almost a shock to see a place like this down a small gang.

Large parking lot with security staff. 102 rooms on 2,3,5 storeys. Central pool. Nicely looked after gardens and ponds.

Staff said hotel is unusually full. Very quiet, good place to relax, no traffic noise. Central bar, restaurant next to reception. and pool.

Tables, chairs and shades in the grounds as well as a massage facility.

Good place to bring a family as you can feel like you’re away from it and be 100 yards from the main street.

Rooms were decent and clean and feature A/C, hot water, shower, private balcony, fridge, minibar, TV, in house movies and telephone.

Hotel facilities include: 1 Swimming pool, laundry and dry cleaning, safety deposit box, taxi on call, currency exchange, doctor on call, fax service.

The restaurant is open 24 hours and there is 24 hour room service.

Standard 1 Night 200,000
Superior 1 Night 300,000
Family 1 Night 400,000



Sanjaya Beach Hotel (0361) 751859

Jalan Legian

Located 20 meters down small gang that runs diagonally away from Jalan Legian across from the Sari Club. This place is also 30 meters from Poppies Lane II.

30 rooms on 3 storeys. A/C in 14 rooms.

The older lady owner is on the property.

This is a basic place that is over priced. Bathrooms range from ordinary to dirty.

Lounge area in front with bamboo furniture. Local guys were hanging out when I visited.

In front is a parking area with chairs and shades.

There is some Balinese stonework around the doors and windows. Small shop next door selling snacks.

Small central pool.

Fan , hot water
Standard Single 1 Night $15
Standard Double 1 Night $18
Standard Extra Bed 1 Night $10

A/C, hot water
Deluxe Single 1 Night $18
Deluxe Double 1 Night $20
Deluxe Extra Bed 1 Night $10

Breakfast and tax included.




White Rose Hotel (0361) 756515

Jalan Legian
Reservation@whiterose.co.id

Located at the end of a small gang across from Sari Club site.

140 rooms in 3 storeys.

Expansive parking area, security post, marble plaque remembering the Bali Bombing.

The lobby is elegant, clean and feels like a proper upscale hotel ( has a sales manager etc.)

Large swimming pool and spa.

Grounds include fountains and are lush and well looked after.

Rooms are quite luxurious with good quality furniture.

Suites have a central lounge area and 3 rooms. The rooms have a King size, Hollywood King size ( a King size that converts to 2 twins ) and 2 twin beds.

The hotel is a decent sized place and very comfortable, right in the heart of Kuta.

I think the White Rose Hotel would be good for families on a short stay.

Facilities include: 24 Restaurant and Coffee Shop, 24 Medical Service on call, Pizzeria next to pool, Gym & Spa, Laundry & Dry Cleaning, Conference Room, Business Center, Drug Store, Currency Exchange, Airport Transfer.

Rooms include: A/C, TV, IDD Telephone, Satellite program, Mini Bar, Private Balcony.

Standard 1 Night $95
Deluxe 1 Night $125
Extra Bed 1 Night $35

Rates subject to 21% tax.




Agung Cottages (0361 ) 757427

Jalan Legian

Located behind large stone archway and money changer.

50 rooms on 1,2 and 3 levels.

Reception and parking in front.

3 storey block at front, bungalows in the middle area, 2 storey block behind pool.

Gardens are well cared for. Bungalows have decent size area inside and large bathroom.

Very clean.

Small temple structure on site. Rear pool.

Bar located next t pool. Restaurant next to reception that is open 0700-1500 serving Indonesian and western food. American, Continental and Indonesian breakfast.

Central ‘bale’ with table and chairs.

Well looked after place with quiet, relaxing atmosphere.

Room facilities include: shower, refrigerator, TV, fan, A/C.

Other facilities include: Car and motorbike rental, daily coach tour.

About 15 minutes to the beach from here.

Breakfast included.

A/C with Hot water
Bungalow Single 1 Night $50
Bungalow Double 1 Night $60

Cottages A/C Single 1 Night $30
Cottages A/C Double 1 Night $35
Cottages A/C Extra 1 Night $10
Cottages A/C Single 1 Night $25
Cottages A/C Double 1 Night $30
Cottages A/C Extra 1 Night $10

Fan cooled with Hot water
Cottages I Single 1 Night $23
Cottages I Double 1 Night $25

Fan cooled, cold water
Cottages II Single 1 Night $20
Cottages II Double 1 Night $22
Cottages II Extra 1 Night $8



Matahari Bungalow (0361) 751616

Jalan Legian
Mthrbgl@indosat.net.id
www.mataharibungalows.com

Located on Jalan Legian the same side as McDonalds in an older looking building with tiled roof.

72 rooms.

Restaurant is next to the street, with reception a bit further back on the right side of a fairly large shady lobby.

Walking back to the left is a row of bungalows, to the right a block of 2 storey rooms.

Further down the same row there are 2 storey suites on the left side. I thought this area had a very tropical feel with many trees and bushes.

Very nice rooms with white tile floors, nicely appointed with light colored wooden fittings, a decorated bed and small kitchen area. Suites also have private balcony with wicker furniture.

Further along from the suites is the pool-area which is fairly large and has a pool bar along with a fountain and ponds. One of the restaurants is also next to the pool.

There is plenty of space on this property with trees and bushes a great place to relax.

All the staff in this hotel are from Bali one guy told me.

A block of 3 storey deluxe rooms are 10 meters to the street side of the pool. Small economy rooms ( bungalows) are located behind the reception area. These are very small, with fan and cold water and are a different proposition to the nicer rooms.

Fan, shower
Grade A Single 1 Night $14
Grade A Double 1 Night $16

A/C, Hot Water, Fan
Grade D Single 1 Night $28
Grade D Double 1 Night $34
Grade D Extra 1 Night $8

A/C, Hot Water, Fan, TV, Fridge on request
Deluxe Single 1 Night $51
Deluxe Double 1 Night $57
Deluxe Extra 1 Night $10

A/C, Hot Water, Fan, TV, Fridge and Kitchen
Suite Single 1 Night $100
Suite Double 1 Night $125
Suite Extra 1 Night $10

All prices subject to 15.5 % tax.

Car, motorbike and coach tours can be rented here.




Hotel Restu Bali (0361) 751251

Jalan Legian #113
Restubali@denpasar.wasantara.net.id
www.restubali.com

Located on the same side of the road as McDonalds, 2 doors down.

This hotel looks as if its been around for a while. Parking area in front of post office at the front with reception behind parking lot.

2nd floor restaurant overlooks the street and is great for checking out the action on Jalan Legian.

I noticed the staff all wear traditional outfits which adds to the appearance of the place.

Rooms are in 2 storey blocks and bungalows. Rooms are very, clean and spacious with a higher degree of comfort
than many on the street. Furniture is good quality and no bamboo stuff on the porch. TV and refrigerator included.

Swimming pool has a jacuzzi and children’s pool.

The Superior rooms is quite large and new looking, the Standard felt a bit cramped after the Superior.

Pretty decent place to stay. Close to Matahari department store on Jalan Legian, McDonalds and Ryoshi Japanese restaurant across the street.

There are a ton of souvenir shops close by and the beach is about 10 minutes walk.

[Up from McDonalds & Ryoshi are Adhi Dharma Hotel on the same side as Ryoshi and Legian Express, same side as McDonalds. These 2 hotels are opposite each other.]




Bendesa (0361) 751358

Jalan Legian

Located down a small gang opposite F.O.B. store and behind Reef surf shop.

50 rooms in bungalows, 2 and 3 storeys. Newer rooms are much nicer than the older ones, even though they are sometimes situated next door.

Refurbishment is going on next to the reception area for a new office.

Parking lot in front with reception area on the left side. Walk right to the bungalows and rooms.

Bungalows are central with blocks around the outside of the property.

Bathrooms are okay, newer rooms have very clean looking fittings.

Porches have a whitish tile and decent furniture.

No swimming pool. The staff are friendly.

The hotel seemed quiet without too many guests and traffic noise. Bungalows are brick with tile roof.

There are 5 classes of rooms.

Standard: Fan & Cold water
1 Person 1 Night 40,000
2 Person 1 Night 60,000
3 Person 1 Night 70,000

Highest: Fan & Cold Water
1 Person 1 Night 70,000
2 Person 1 Night 100,000
3 Person 1 Night 150,000
4 Person 1 Night 200,000

New rooms with A/C & Hot water:
1 Person 1 Night 150,000
2 Person 1 Night 200,000

Breakfast is included.




Fourteen Roses Hotel (0361) 752078

Jalan Legian #153
H14roses@dps.centrin.net.id

Located next to Ryoshi Japanese restaurant with 72 rooms. The receptionist told me all the rooms were full and did not want me to take photos inside the restaurant hence no photos.

This hotel attracts many domestic tourists.

Decent lobby with traditional type furniture and street -side restaurant.

Hotel facilities include swimming pool, room service, taxi service, laundry, shuttle bus to airport, safety deposit box at front desk, restaurant and bar, meeting room for 50 people.

Standard Room: A/C, refrigerator, hot water, telephone, TV
Standard Single 1 Night $40
Standard Twin/Double 1 Night $45
Standard Extra Bed 1 Night $10
Standard Family Room 1 Night $60

Hotel Pool View: A/C, refrigerator, hot water, telephone, TV
Hotel Pool View Single 1 Night $50
Hotel Pool View Twin/Double 1 Night $60
Hotel Pool View Extra Bed 1 Night $12
Hotel Pool View Family Room 1 Night $75

Breakfast included.

21% tax added to bill.

[Walking up Jalan Legian you come to Jalan Benesari on the left side and you'll see a sign for the second section of the Adhi Dharma Hotel.

Walk another 150 meters and on the right side of the road is the Kuta Paradiso.]




3 Brothers Bungalows (0361) 751566

Jalan Legian

Located on the left side of Jalan Legian past Jalan Melasti heading up the main street. The 3 Brothers Bungalows are tucked down a small gang and the property, which has 86 rooms stretches back to the next block.

This is one of the most pleasant properties on Jalan Legian.

The lobby / reception is right behind the main parking area. The rooms are spread out in small 2 storey blocks.

Balinese stonework and carving adorn the outside of most rooms, which are spacious and clean.

The Standard room I looked at had a mosquito net and an open air bathroom. Some of the non A/C rooms have a little air-flow gap at the top of the doorway and the mosquito net is necessary. Don’t worry its all part of the experience.

Rooms have red tile floors with porch area on which to relax. Bathroom is equipped with

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Bali Shopping

Shopping in Bali at glance

You can go shopping for fine art and handicrafts such as antique and semi-antique furniture, all kinds of paintings, delicately crafted gold and silver jewelry, wood and stone carvings, masks, woven and dyed fabrics, etc. in many shops in the Kuta/Legian area, in Sanur, in various handicraft villages and the Sukawati market on the way to Ubud, and in the town of Ubud.

Bali is the place to practise your bargaining skills. Unless the product is price-tagged, bargaining is the norm. It will prove to be an exciting venture if this is your first time while the experts will find it exhilarating, especially when a good deal was struck. Many come to Bali with a 'shop till you drop' attitude, so you would probably end up buying a few things anyhow. There are numerous western-style department stores and shopping centers in Denpasar, Kuta-Legian, Sanur and Nusa Dua that offer a range of clothing, shoes, leather goods, sports gear, and toys. The service is generally good, and the low value of the rupiah ensures excellent prices. Balinese arts and crafts are the most popular purchases but you can also get value-for-money goods such as clothing, music, musical instruments and watches.

In most of the shops you can and should bargain for the best price. Be especially careful with the vendors near popular tourist attractions such as Tanah Lot or, for instance, the rip-off artists in the Bali Aga village Tenganan who are well-known for selling fake "antique" fabrics (even spray-painted instead of woven cloth) for very high prices.

Popular buys are DVDs featuring even very recent movies. These are illegal copies but they sell for just 10,000 Rupiah per piece or 100,000 Rupiah for 11 and are available everywhere in Bali. Beach wear, T-shirts, pants and other clothing, shoes and leather goods, sea shells, trinkets, etc. are offered at low prices in numerous shops in Kuta and Legian as well as – much more expensive – in many hotels. Popular shopping centers are Geneva, Jalan Raya Kerobokan in Seminyak for cheap handicrafts, Kuta Square with many shops and a branch of the Matahari Department Store and Supermarket offering everything a tourist could be interested in as well as the huge new Kartika Discovery Mall in Jalan Kartika in Tuban.

Avoid the DUTY FREE SHOPPERS outlets by all means! Local products are ridiculously expensive here. As an example, one bottle of the HATTEN Rose wine which is made in Sanur costs at DFS US$11 which is more than in most local restaurants! Even worse – if you look for a beautiful French made blouse, a designer handbag, some jewellry or a dress watch for your partner to wear at a special occasion in Bali, you'll totally waste your time: all imported items, even clothing and accessories, bought at DFS will be delivered to you at the airport and not before you leave Bali.

Shopping at Bedugul Bali

This is known as a farming area and is a great place to buy the choicest fruits, vegetables and flowers. Bedugul Bali is located at the mountain side and the weather is a bit cold and fresh. You may find interesting shopping at the traditional market, its provide various traditional goods (handicarfts), plants for gardening, vegetables and fruits.

Shopping at Celuk Bali

The home of silver and gold artisans, Celuk presents huge stores that house a wide variety of all types of intricately designed pieces. The silver filigree work is quite unbelievable but bargaining is a must.


Shopping at Denpasar Bali

The capital of Bali is not exactly a tourist area but there are a few main areas worth checking out. The Kumbasari market near the river gives an interesting overview of Indonesian markets with household wares and clothing on the third level, spices and goods on the second level, and a traditional market in the basement. Nearby is Jalan Hasanudin, a whole street of gold shops selling 18 to 22 carat gold jewellery. Not far is Jalan Sulawesi where all manner of fabrics are available. The entire street has fabric stores on both sides with a few household ware shops in between. If handicrafts are your aim, then move along to Jalan Gajah Mada where items similar to those sold in Kuta are found, but without the presence of hawkers. It is a good idea to visit the government-run handicraft center in Tohpati, Sanggraha Kriya Asti, which offers a range of handicrafts at fixed prices. You can also shop at department stores such as Matahari, Libi, MA, Tiara Dewata, Tragia, or Ramayana.

Duty Free Shopping

Plaza Bali and DFS have duty free shopping outlets in Kuta, Sanur, Nusa Dua, and the airport in Bali. A wide range of designer label boutiques can be found but bear in mind that some products in Indonesia do not have high duties, such as cigarettes.

(Source: http://www.balispecial.com/bali-shopping.html)

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Bali Arts and Crafts

Traditional Balinese Creativity

The Balinese are surrounded by art throughout their lives as art is omnipresent in Bali. They make art out of the most basic necessities in their daily lives. However, artistic knowledge is not commissioned only to a special intellectual class, but is open to everyone at all levels. Painting, sculpture, carving and music have traditionally been the province of men, while women channeled their creative energy into creating lavish offerings to the gods. In every festival, you can see spectacular pyramids of flowers, fruit, and cakes up to two meters high, constructed with such love and adoration that it could only be meant for a higher being. Although a religiously regarded practice, Balinese art does not serve religion solely. Bemos, jackets, menus, motorcycles, hotel doorways and other objects are decorated with sacred symbols. They do not view this use as sacrilegious. It is incredible to see so many people in such a small area pour so much energy into creating beautiful things.


Bali Wood Carving

The Balinese sculpture with natural media - wood, stone, bone, horn, deadwood, and even gnarled tree roots. Nowadays, souvenir-caliber wood carving is churned out and successful creations are mass produced. Any visitor to Bali is likely to be exposed to wood carving in all forms, be it the traditional ornate carved doors, the carved figures of gods, or the countless carved items in craft shops. Wood carving is a craft practiced all over Bali. Open your ears to the tapping sound of the carver's mallet and you would know that there is one around. It would be taxing to separate traditional and foreign influences. However, Balinese are intense observers of the outside world, effortlessly incorporating and adapting foreign themes into their work.

For quality wood carving, head to Tegallalang, Pujung, and Sebatu, which is north of Ubud. It is a great area to meet woodcarvers; it is best to take note of the artist's name and visit him at the workshop to negotiate a better price. Bali is a perfect place for western artists to study their crafts. There are wood carving lessons in which you can learn to carve your own mask in about three weeks.


Bali Stone Carving

The technique used in stone carving is very much the same as wood carving since soft volcanic rock is used. Stone carving is relatively unaffected by tourist consumerism as most pieces are too exorbitant to ship. You can vividly see stone carving skills in the distinctive split gates, swirling stone friezes, and absurd and menacing mythological statuary. The centers for stone carving are Kapal and Batubulan. Although stone carvings were mainly used to decorate temples and palaces, the carvers had much more leeway in their use of subject matter than the artists and illustrators. There is little difference between the iconography decorating temples and that of private buildings. Gateways represent the dividing line between the inner and outer worlds, and as such are the recipients of some of the most fantastic carvings. As well as portraying deities and demons, the carvers included many scenes from public life and there are many temple surfaces enriched with the antics of the Dutch Colonialists, including scenes of bicycles, drunken parties, car break-downs and even airplanes. Bali's modem-day centre of stone carving is the village of Batubulan, situated halfway between Denpasar and Gianyar. Although you can see excellent examples of Balinese stone carving all over the island, the temples in the North tend to bc much more creative (with the exception of Pura Puseh in Batabulan).


Bali Textiles

One of the most striking things about Bali is the rich variety of cloths and materials that are to be seen in thousands of shops throughout the island. However, only a small proportion of these are indigenous to Bali. The myriad of batik clothes and sarongs available everywhere are mainly imported from Java. A large proportion of the woven cloths (Ikat) round in and around the Kuta / Legian area, are imported from the islands of Sumba and Flores. However, Bali does have a very rich textile industry of its own. The beautiful Songket fabrics wom by performers of traditional dance are a good example. In Songket, gold and silver threads are woven into the cloth to create complex motifs of birds, butterflies and flowers. Sometimes they use so much gold and silver that the underlying cloth is barely visible.

The first kind of textile that you will find in Bali is batik, which is popular among tourists and locals alike. There is every imaginable style and quality that you can chance upon throughout the island, but it is surprising that batik is actually produced in central Java and then shipped to Bali. Bali's own home-produced cloth is a weft ikat called endek. Ikat is made by tying the weft threads of a cloth before it is woven and then dying them so that the tied areas do not absorb the dye. The cloth is then woven and the pattern, created by the tying of the threads, emerges. This cloth is not very popular with visitors but is indispensable to the locals. Authentic ikat is made of silk but cotton and synthetic yarns are also widely used. Also, keep a look out for kain prada, fabrics woven of silk or cotton and decorated with silver or gold threads or gold leaf. These colorful kerchiefs are worn by temple girls during festivals and take three weeks to a month to weave.

(source:http://www.balispecial.com/bali-arts.html)

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Bali Night Life

what you can do in Bali at night
Night life in Bali starts late, which means around midnight. Many visitors wonder where crowds of expats suddenly come from around 1:00 in the morning – even when all of Kuta has been very quiet during the whole evening, the IN-places often become crowded after midnight.There's a simple explanation: during the early evenings many of Bali's night owls either still work, visit friends at home, or simply sleep. Most of them visit pubs, bars, or discos only in the early morning hours. Therefore, if you plan a night out don't start your dinner too early. Between 9:00 p.m. and midnight there are not many places we can recommend.

Visitors looking for company don't need to worry. Wherever you go in Sanur and the Kuta area, there are many other single travellers with the same problem around – day and night. In Bali's discos you'll meet also many "kupu kupu malams" ("night butterflies" or working girls) and young boys who compete with the females and service all sexes. All taxi drivers know the more popular karaoke bars and massage parlours in Kuta and Denpasar, and the various "Houses of ill Repute" in Sanur's narrow back lanes.

As reported that "Prostitution is illegal in Bali. However, like in many countries, everyone turns a blind eye. Many girls can be found in nightclubs and bars in most areas. They look usually just like the girl next door, albeit with a bit more make up on, and they usually dress to please the eye. For the most part, they are gentle, easy to be with, and a lot of fun if you want to dance, drink and have a little fun with. Most will be yours for the whole night for about 300,000 Rupiah although prices range from 100,000 Rupiah to 1,000,000 Rupiah and more – depending on the season, the time of night, the situation and the quality of service".


Bali Kuta Night Life

Everybody looking for some action and fun in the evening goes to "Kuta" which nowadays means the area extending about 4 miles or 7 kilometers North from the original village of Kuta and includes now Legian, Seminyak and even Basangkasa. PEANUTS Discotheque on Jalan Raya Legian at the Jalan Melasti corner (about the border between Kuta and Legian) has been re-opened very soon after it was gutted by a fire. The huge (air-conditioned) dance floor is often crowded, guests are a mix of locals and younger foreign visitors.

You'll find a large and quite popular HARD ROCK CAFE right at the beginning of Kuta's beach road with live music from 11 p.m. to 2 a.m. Expect to find many singles of all kinds here looking for company. If you think this is too noisy, too crowded, or the air-conditioning too cold for you, try the CENTER STAGE at the HARD ROCK RESORT located in the back of the CAFE. As the name implies, the band performs on a raised stage in the middle of the huge round lobby bar until 11:00 p.m. Both HARD ROCK outlets are expensive by Bali standards.

Later, from 2:00 a.m., it's party time at the PAPARAZZI LOUNGE and DOUBLE SIX, a large open-air disco with several bars, big dance floor, and many tables. Both are located next to each other on the beach in Seminyak and charge an entrance fee of 30,000 to 100,000 Rupiah (depending on the day) for which you get a voucher for a free drink. Here you'll find most of Bali's night owls drinking and dancing the night away until 4:30 a.m. or so. (The legendary GADO GADO Disco has been re-converted into a restaurant.)

Also, watch out for notices and small posters in Kuta and Seminyak announcing special events such as Full Moon Parties, House Warming Parties, Body Painting Parties, etc, etc. If these "parties" are announced to the public (even if only by word-of-mouth), they are open for everybody. You'll have to pay for your drinks, therefore, don't be shy.



Sanur and Nusa Dua Bali area

Some quite popular places in Sanur are the BORNEO PUB on Jalan Danau Tamblingan and the TROPHY PUB in front of the Sanur Beach Hotel. Both, however, close around 1:00 a.m. The JAZZ GRILLE, was opened in February 1999 and attracts tourists and locals alike with live bands (from 9:30 to 12:00 p.m.), a smallish menu, and a billiard table upstairs. KAFE WAYANG in the same building has life music with a good local band and jam sessions with foreign guests every Friday – no wonder it's very popular with many residents. JANGER is currently the only disco in Sanur. Most tourists and even the expats living in Sanur prefer to go to "Kuta" if they look for some fun. The discos and pubs in Nusa Dua's 5-star hotels are often rather empty. They are mostly frequented by those visitors who stay in-house and are too tired to make the 30 minutes drive to Kuta.


Ubud Bali Night Life

Don't expect too much here, because Ubud is identic to relaxation, fresh, peaceful and quiets place. Ubud is the best place for honeymooners, senior tourists and people who demand quiet and peaceful place. But names frequently mentioned include PUTRA BAR, Jl. Monkey Forest (every night live music ranging from Reggae to rock), MAGIC BAR, Jl. Monkey Forest (live music and sometimes great atmosphere), JAZZ CAFE, Jl. Tebesaya (live music and jam sessions on different nights), EXILE BAR (Saturday nights only, great music), and FUNKY MONKEY (early hours cafe).

(source:http://www.balispecial.com/bali-night-life.html)

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Bali's Museum

MUSEUM BALI
Address : Mayor Wisnu Street,Denpasar
Opening Hours : Sundays-Thursday: 08.00-15.00, Fridays 08.00-12.30, Saturdays and public holidays closed
Facilities : Exhibitions and bookshop

MUSEUM PURI LUKISAN
Address : Jl. Raya Ubud, Bali
Opening hours :09.00-17.00 dailly
Facilities : Exhibitions and bookshop

NEKA ART MUSEUM
Address : Jl. Raya Sanggingan,Ubud
Opening hours :09.00-17.00 daily
Facilities : Art Gallery,gift shop

NYOMAN GUNARSA MUSEUM OF CLASSICAL AND CONTEMPORARY ART
Address : Jl. Pertigaan Banda No, 1, Takmung, Banjarangkan, Klungkung
Opening hours :10.00-17.00 daily
Facilities : Museum library, gallery

THE BLANCO RENAISSANCE MUSEUM
Address : Jl. Campuhan, Ubud
Opening hours :09.00-17.00 daily including weekends and public holidays
Facilities :The maestro’s studio, Mario Blanco’s gallery, library

MUSEUM RUDANA
Address : Jl. Cok Rai Pudak 44,Peliatan,Ubud
Opening hours : 10.00-17.00
Facilities : Art gallery, art studio and bookstore

AGUNG RAI MUSEUM of ART
Address : Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, Bali
Opening hours : 09.00-17.00 daily
Facilities : Art gallery, and book shop

MUSEUM PENDET
Address : Bale Bali,Nyuh Kuning, Ubud
Opening hours : 10.00-17.00 daily
Facilities : Galleries and meeting room

MUSEUM SIDIK JARI
Address : Jl. Hayam Wuruk 175, Tanjung Bungkak Denpasar
Opening hours : 10.00-17.00
Facilities :Galleries, book shop

PUTRAWAN MUSEUM OF TRIBAL ART AT ALAM PURI VILLA
Address : Jl. Trenggana 108, Penatih, Denpasar
Opening hours : 10.00-17.00 daily
Facilities : Museum shop, library

RUNA JEWELRY MUSEUM
Address : Banjar Abiansemal, Lodtunduh, Ubud
Opening hours : 10.00-17.00 daily
Facilities : Museum shop

MUSEUM SUBAK
Address : Sanggulan Village, Jl. Gatot Subroto, Tabanan
Opening hours : Monday to Saturday 08.00-16.30, Fridays: 08.00-13.00, Sunday and Public holidays closed

MUSEUM LE MAYEUR
Address : Hang Tuah Street, Sanur
Opening hours : Sunday to Thursday 07.30-17.30, Fridays: 07.30-13.00, Saturdays and holidays closed

MUSEUM BULELENG
Address : Veteran Street,Singaraja
Opening hours : Open daily except public holidays

GEDONG KIRTYA
Address : Veteran Street, Singaraja
Opening hours : Monday to Thursday 07.30-03.30, Friday 07.00-12.30, Weekends and public holidays closed
Facilities : Art gallery, book shop

PURBAKALA ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM
Address : High Street, Tampaksiring
Opening hours : Monday to Thursday 08.00-03.00, Friday 08.00-12.00

THE DIOROMA MONUMENT TO THE STRUGGLE OF THE PEOPLE OF BALI
Address : Niti Mandala, Denpasar
Opening hours : Monday to Friday 08.30-04.30, Weekends 09.00-04.30, Public holidays closed

HEROES OF MARGARANA CEMETERY AND MONUMENT
Address : Kelaci Village, Tabanan
Opening hours : Monday to Friday 08.30-12.00, Sunday and public holiday closed

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Trance Of Dance

The balance was the core from living philosophy in Bali. In fact the concept of this life was also used in the Javanese community and another part the ethnic group in Indonesia. The values of equality towards nature, interpersonal humankind and the worship against something that was regarded as highest were culture of the local community that could not be separated in the everyday life.

The community believed that to one another would mutually relate and affected each other. In art, the dance was one of the various styles of culture that was most prominent in Indonesia, especially in the style of Balinese culture.

The dance was born as the rhythmic movement would the community”™s response to curiosity, pleasure, the fear, et cetera that happened in the everyday life.

Not surprised if in the long run the Balinese dance often adopted in visual nature and cognition humankind as the creative idea material. The Trance Of Dance time, the movement and the eyes looked in each Balinese dance available always had the story that was not far the difference from the real life.

For the Balinese community, the dance was not only as the form of art, but also as ritual prosperity and the safety. In certain dances was gotten unsure magical that functioned as blocker bad strengths that were connected with the plague of the illness (epidemic) or the other disaster. Here the dance no longer becomes the artistic show, but as ritual that had mysterious intentions.

Intentions that were mysterious with unique rhythms that became one intact unity, made the Balinese dance to be very interesting despite quite a few people who regarded that as the ritual form primitive.- It was different from the European dance that tended to lift heels and straightened foot like as ballet, the European dance tended aim at the view of the eyes above.

In the Balinese dance but also in most traditional Indonesian dances, the concept folded foot and bowed the head was the most important part in unsure this dance. The concept appreciated the earth and the fertility of reflected nature in this movement.

In the traditional dance, trace was the basic incident from the achievement of the aim of this local art. A dancer who did not make the dance aware will experience the incident supernatural that possibly it was considered did not make sense. Strengths magic and kept against the sharp object to the dancer that has did not realist himself was real proof that in fact coexistence humankind with other matter.

Traced of a dancer that was becomes proof that approval relations of a matter that was other with the existence of this humankind. Whereas the dance personally, only connecting bridge relationship humankind with other think.

(source http://www.baliexplorenews.com)

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Egg Painting

The Balinese island was indeed rich in the culture and the tradition apart from his nature that really enchanted. It is not surprising afterwards Bali was known as one of he reas f the Cultural tour.

From however many areas of the aim of the tour, more incomplete apparently if you came to the Balinese Island not make use of visited to the upgrading Series, the Rock Village, Sukawati - Gianyar.

In this village you could witness the community around that was doing several good paintings the traditional and modern motive that was so beautiful. Attracted by art work is media that was used not from canvas, paper or wood but an egg.

Very exotic, and it seems untiringly we saw the wonder because apart from beautiful also unique. This diligence was given by the Egg Painting name, because his base indeed came from egg skin. The normal egg used by the craftsman was the duck egg, the goose egg, the egg and the ostrich egg of assowary birds.

Definitely before the egg was used before must e processed. Initially the contents of eggs were issued before with used spait, which the egg is not rotten and skin was not broken. After that the egg drayed, just afterwards in the sandpaper to be refined.

After soft egg skin just afterwards was made the model/ the motive to his surface. The further process is coloring. Normal dye was used by the craftsmen was Acrylic with consideration of the color was not easy faded although being affected by water.

After coloring was finish, the next step is finishing with sprayed clear glosses so that the painting is seen clear and not easy broken.

From subject hat was successful in interviewed by Balinese Explore News, namely I Wayan Kenyat one of the Great employees Putra Egg painting said, that Time that was needed to complete an egg painting that too many depended the motive and big the small size of he egg.

To that was measuring small like the duck egg, usually the craftsman only needs time 1 day, for the goose egg needed time 2 days. To that was measuring was, as the egg of cassowary birds needed time 1 week, whereas to that measuring.


(Source:http://www.baliexplorenews.com)

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Goa Gajah, The Elephant Cave - Part 2

In the center of it all emerges the enormous, monstrous face which ever since the early 1920 has intrigued visitors, and which still leaves us with many questions. It most probably is a witcha well known feature in Balinese thought-for the ear ornaments are a woman’s. The head defi- nitely recalls the witch Rangda’s mask from Balinese theater.









It has changed places with the kala-heads, well known from ancient Javanese monuments, where they are usually taken to be entrance protectors, looking fearful and clawing with pointed nails. Kala-heads, well known from ancient Javanese monuments, where they are usually taken to be entrance protectors, looking fearful and clawing with pointed nails. Kala-heads moreover function as celestial elements stressing the heavenly character of sanctuaries.

Rather than the Goa Gajah witch herself, Balinese monster heads on the gate ways to the temple compounds resemble East Javanese kalas. The Combinations of a monster’s head [of kala type] and hermit’s cave is also known in East Java. But again the candi’s entrance, it is version turned fully Balinese: a real witch-the more dehumanized for her pointed ears and the long tusk-like fangs which enclose the entrance – taken from theatricals and impressed upon the rock. It is difficult to say whether this specific witch should be considered “threatening”. A Balinese, for that matter, likes threatening temple decorations, which make him feel safe from the dangerous powers repelled by the ugly faces.

The witch seems to emerge with all her powers from the mysterious world enclosing her, and to which she belongs. A different interpretation has some mighty personage pushing apart the rock, as Siva Pasupati did to the cosmic mountain-thuns creating simultaneously the rival mountain Batur and Agung as well as the “split gate” or candi bentar.

The witch’s eyes curiously look sideways at the intruder, instead of peering straight ahead. And just as Rangda she seems to express, rather than impose, fear: “…the witch is not only a fear-inspiring figure, but…she is fear. Her hands with their long menacing fingernails do not clutch and claw at her victims… But the witch herself spreads her arms with palms out and her fingers flexed backward, in the gesture the Balinese call kapar, a term which they apply to the startled reaction of man who falls from a tree.”

In the 1950s a large piece of the witch’s head which had fallen down [spoiling its expression and resulting in erroneous interpretations] was restored to original place. Moreover, Mr. Krijgsman’s activities when working at the Goa Gajah eventually led to an interesting discovery.

Until 1954 several figurative spouts stood on either side of the cave’s entrance: one shaped as a two- handed Ganesa, the others [six] as the upper halves of female figures. They evidently came from some watering place in the neighborhood. In the early 1950s the spouts were provisionally placed around a small pond not far from the cave. Water came from a well via an old tunnel parallel to the rock as of old, provided with four manholes for cleaning purpose]. But the spout figures did not fit this situation because there was no connection between the busts and the pound’s border. In 1954 the flat courtyard in front of the cave was excavated. Rock bottom was struck around 50 c, without any soil finds other than the wall screen in front of the cave.

Acting on information received from locals, Krijgman widened the field of his clearing to include the ravine’s border south of the cave. There, it was said, he would find stone steps. The beginning of a three fold flight of steps was found, which after excavations led a former watering place. It consist of two separate partitions, probably one for women and one for men. Each formerly had been connected with a water system by three figurative spouts, shaped like standing nymphs. Only the lower parts of these figures were still in situ. They proved to the fit the upper parts found in front of the cave. The figures measure around 2 meters in height, without their lotus cushions. Thus the watering place could be restored, and its original functions re-established. The walls of the basins were renewed to construct an aesthetically satisfactory and work able bathing unit.

The back wall’s top is in a line with the courtyard in front of the cave. Part of the wall between the two groups of there spouting figures has not been restored; the narrow basin’s exact layout has not been ascertained. The Ganesa spout found with the other figures in front of the cave may have been situated in the middle basin and provisionally given a place there, albeit unconnected with the water system. The other spouting figures are fed from the original water system [east of the cave, used previously for the small pond], and produce their jets of water from lotus buds.

Despite the different in level there is apparently a direct relation between the cave and the watering place. The spouts are arranged in a line with the cave’s entrance passage.

The lower part of the figures was carved from the living rock. Presumably, masses of earth, and carved stones from walls or gateways, slipped down from the side of the stairs, eventually coverings part of the figures. On top of this piled up mass was situated a pura, which still partially exists. The loose upper parts apparently were taken away to be replaced in front of the cave. This must have occurred before the cave was first reported by Heyting and Niuwenkamp. In the neighborhood of the cave several objects were also located: a pot – shaped stone object, two cylindrical stupas, and some pinnacles.



The discovery of the watering place was one the greatest surprises of archaeological work in Bali after World War II. Hoping that site would be accepted as a regular bathing place, Mr. Krijigsman led the way by taking his daily bath there. Others happily followed his example until it was officially decided this ancient watering place was too sacred for such profane use.

One of the pavilions in front of the cave harbors an image of the Buddhist goddess Hariti. A child – devouring ogres, she was converted to Budhism, and became a child protectress; she is always accompanied by quite a number of children. She is found in sanctuaries in India as well as elsewhere in the Buddhist world [e.g. in Java in Candi Mendut’s antechamber]. In Bali she acquired an establish positions – perhaps through identifications with some indigenous legendary personage. In Both ancient and recent art she is picture as the female half of a poor couple-Pan Brayut and his wife Men Brayut- blessed with many children. The Goa Gajah Hariti was dated by Stutterheim around A.D 1000 [old Balinese Period].

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Goa Gajah The Elephant Cave -Part1

The name Elephant Cave” perhaps originated with early visitors, mistakenly interpreting the monster”™s head as an elephant, or from villagers with the same misunderstanding. There may also be a (much order) connection with gajah.

A Balinese place name Lwa Gajah, “œElephant Water,” is in fact mentioned in the 1365 Nagarakertagama as the seat of high Buddhist official. Since it occurs immediately after Badahulu (nearby Bedulu)this Lwa Gajah, named for some reason unknown to us, may very well have later given its name to the cave.

After his first visit to the site, Nieuwenkamp rightly had doubts about the head above the cave being an elephant”™s. Its face was badly damaged (hence the earlier reference to a “œmouth”). There was no sign of a trunk. Neither the ears nor the ear ornament suggested an elephant (or could the big eyes, of which only the right remains, give that idea!).

For some time the question remained unanswered, but a clearing of the rock”™s surface and recent restorations left no doubt about there being no elephant whatever in the rock wall. The cave lies south of the road, several metes bellows its level, and must be reached by a steep by steep path. Whereas for a long time since its discovery, the situation of the elephant Cave and the little pura in front of it had not notably changed, the 1954 excavation of the watering place gave a new character to the cave”™s surroundings.

The interior cave was first reconnoitered by, Nieuwenkamp, who paid no attention to bystanders”™ remarks that “œthere was nothing inside.” The cave consists of a man made Tshaped excavation opening to the south. Recent research has revealed that there may have been a stone screen (in modern Bali called alingaling, comparable to the kelir protecting Javanese entrances ) in front of the cave”™s entrance.

Such screen safeguard dwellings and sanctuaries against evil influences. According to Balinese views, such influences may be expected from the south which the cave faces. In Central and South Bali south is kelod, “œtowards the sea” and the Nether World, thus dangerous.

The entrance, 2 meters high and only 1 meter wide, leads to a very dark interior. The T”™s straight leg consist of a porch (2 meterwide) and a passage (1 meter wide) which together penetrate into the rock over a depth of around 9 meters. The T”™s crossbeam covers about 13.5 meters, to a width of 2.75 meters. The cave contains 15 niches hewn out of the wall. Some of them are along (those either side of the porch 2 meters to a depth of 90 cm; those in the passage 1.8 meters to a depth of 1 meter); they may have served as sleeping places.

Those along the lateral passage are short (seven niches along the north wallmaximum 126 cm high, around 100 cm wide, 135 cm deep-and two niches in the south wall-65 and 90 cm, to a depth of 75 cm) and may have served various purposes. The niches at the western and eastern extremities are 80 cm and 140 cm respectively, to a height of 80 cm each. Since Niuwenkamp”™s first report on the Elephant Cave there have been some pieces of sculpture in the end niches of the lateral passages: a four-armed Ganesha (height 105 cm) in the left wing, a set of three linggas (height 46.5cm) placed side by side on the same pedestal (length 113 cm) at the opposite end. Each of the linggas is surrounded by eigth smaller ones.

The whole set is hewn out of one piece of stone. Ganesha being Siva”™s elephantine son, and the lingga being Siva”™s distinctive, does not necessarily stamp the cave a Sivaistic sanctuary at all, it migt also have been a Buddhist one. To The right of the entrance are two vaguely engraved graffiti in the wall (inside), one above the other. The upper one seems older than the second (written in larger type), and recalls the writing of an A.D. 1074 inscription. The engravings read kamon (or kumon), and sahy (v) angsa. The meaning is not clear. If the writing is correctly dated (second half of the 11th century) the cave itself might have been made early in the same century. Sculptures found in the neighborhood cover a longer timespan.

The cave has been cut into a projecting part (height around 4.5 meters) of a rock wall whose surface was simultaneously straightened on either side, the more to emphasize the salient, which has a flat surface. We sometimes get the impression that the flat top of a recluse”™s cave was used for meditation. There is indeed a flight of steps in the rock (to the right); it does not, however, reach the salient”™s top. (there is a rectangular niche at the end of the steps). The situations is ambiguous.

The salient”™s front and lateral faces are entirely covered with sculpture suggesting stylized mountain scenery interspersed with large and forcefully modeled leaves. Animal, monsters, and anthropomorphic phantom climb the rocks, peep around corners, or comprise funny scenes, such as a bear (?) kept on a leash (or prodded with a long stick?) by a goblin, safely lying on a salient over the animal”™s back.

The animal kingdom is further represented by snake in its hole, another highly stylized snake (?), a tortoise, and some indistinct animal. Two little figures climb a rock: one, whose loincloth is sliding down, has genitals showing. In addition there are a monster”™s head with pointed ears, a lingga or broken statuette (?),etc. This baroque scene present a mysterious mountain forest, set apart from the civilized world of human beings”¦”¦to be continued

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The Balinese Warung

Sidarta Wijaya

A warung is an Indonesian term for a small roadside stall that sells snacks, drinks and convenient household items. However, in Bali a warung is also the local coffee house, corner store and community meeting spot for neighbours to sit and exchange the latest news or gossip. Every village has at least a dozen warung’s that serve the daily needs of locals and anyone else who happens to pass by. Some warung’s are crude makeshift structures of bamboo and oddments of timber, while others may be a more permanent construction built as an afterthought on the outer perimeter of the family compound.


The general setup of a warung is fairly basic, consisting of aged wooden benches for customers to sit upon. Goods are displayed in glass canisters on shelves or spread across large plastic covered tabled that can be wiped down with a damp cloth. Fresh fruit sits on mismatched plates next to capped bottles of coca cola, the latest release of flavoured bubblegum and small bags of fried peanuts. Colourful packets of potato chips are strung up on lengths of wire hanging from the roof along with individual sachets of mosquito repellant, shampoo, washing powder and instant coffee. Most Balinese warung’s are a chaotic jumble of goods and sometimes even the vendor can’t remember where things are kept.

Owning a warung does not really generate a great income as most goods are sold for just a few hundred rupiah above the recommended retail price. But the main benefit for a warung proprietor is that the work is flexible and if it is attached to their home they can go about their other daily household chores in between sales. Opening a small warung is a popular means of employment for married women as they can literally ‘take care of the shop’ whilst suckling a newborn infant or prepare the numerous offerings required for Balinese Hindu ceremonies and rituals.As the Balinese habitually snack throughout the course of the day, the warung is the ideal spot to satiate one’s appetite with a sweet sticky rice cake and a tall glass of aromatic coffee. Children come to buy cheap candies and imitation soda drinks cooled with chunks of ice. When the afternoon draws to a close the menfolk flock to their local warung clutching their prize fighting roosters to socialize, discuss recent events, analyze the headlines of the daily newspaper and share bottles of warm beer. Many warung’s provide customers with a small platform-like seat constructed from strips of bamboo where a group of men can sit cross-legged in their sarongs to play chess, dominoes and traditional card games.

Warung’s in rural villages often stay open until late night and served alcoholic beverages. These potent wines, brewed from fermented rice and palm juice, are a cheap alternative to imported liquors. The warung’s that serve such beverages are especially popular at the weekends with teenage youth in areas where nightlife entertainment is limited.

Warung’s also function as convenience stores and prevent unnecessary trips to the market for items such as cooking oil, sugar, shampoo or dish washing detergent. Most goods are sold in single use sachets and packets, although this excess of plastic is playing havoc with Bali’s waste control system. Many warung’s these days either have a television set or radio blaring in the background to help the seller relieve the long hours between sales.

The most unique aspect of the traditional Balinese warung is that it operates on an honour system. Customers help themselves to the array of snacks on display and the charge is calculated after consumption. This is a sign of trust; nevertheless, a shrewd proprietor will always keep a sharp eye out for just how many packets of shrimp crackers or shelled peanuts have been eaten.

In an era where shopping malls and trendy cafes have sprung up all over the island, there still remains a place in Balinese society for the humble warung. For many there is a sense of comfort in sitting at the warung with friends and neighbours in familiar surroundings that are void of pretentious consumerism.

Photo by Wijaya

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Guwang The Traditional Art Market

If you came to the Balinese Island to go on holiday, more incomplete if not bringing the present as souvenir/the souvenir. Especially Balinese diligence. Many places that could be visited by you to get this diligence. Among them you could come to the traditional artistic markets like the Kumbasari art Market in Street Gajah Mada - Denpasar, Sukawati the traditional art market,Gianyar, Ubud the traditional art market-Gianyar art, Kuta the traditional art market- Badung, and Guwang the traditional art market -Gianyar Bali.

Shopped in the art market will give the memory and the experience trsendiri. Here your expertise in bargaining the thing will in the test, be compared if you shopped in Art shop or the supermarket that has had banderol [fix price] remained chose and paid in the cashier.

When you decided to come to the traditional Balinese art market, to try to come to the art market Guwang that was located in the village guwang, the Sukawati Sub district, Gianyar Regency. This traditional artistic market began to be opened at 8.00 wita to the hour 18.00.wita, his place then really was easy to be covered because indeed was in the main road headed Ubud, sukawati, Mas, and the city Gianyar.

The area parked that was quite wide made the atmosphere be not too chaotic, you even relaxed shopped and enjoyed the atmosphere and the environment around the market.

The craftsman at the same time as the trader in this market around 500 people, so imaginable how many the artistic kind traditional that in sold in this market.

Beginning with socks, the statue, bad cover, the painting, the bag, complexities, relief, etc. The price that was offered then was competitive enough, moreover if you had the expertise in bargaining the thing. You felt you were challenged, please came and was safe to adventuring

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Bali Predominate Craft Export

The creativity of Balinese craft in creating various artistic craft to fulfill the demand of international market has already well known by the overseas importer. Kasubdin of foreign trade of Bali Trading department, Ni Wayan Kusumawathi said “various craft of Bali have a great demand in international market, especially in Uni Eropa, United States, Japan and some other Asian countries”

She affirm that realization value of various craft of Bali on January to July 2007 period was 138.814.257,19 US dollars, it raised 14, 20 percents from the same period at 2006 which was only 121.548.851,09 US dollars. Further, she tells that these acquirement of exchange foreign come from 17 commodity. Silver ornament, wood statue, ceramics, bamboo craft, waxy craft and painting sold to 79 countries in the world. Various commerce of art goods made in Balinese craft maker still predominate crafting export to international markets. As a prove, the average of Bali export commodity value keep increasing.

She explained more that the commodity of music equipment increasing until 105,73 percent and the value of wood craft export increase 29,18 US dollars from 43.445.011,81 US dollars. While commodity of silver craft in form of rings, necklace, circle and ear stud during January to July 2007 period have yielded foreign exchange 1.403.018,70 US dollars or rising 3.3210,03 percent compared to the same period in 2006which only yielded foreign exchange 41.011,60 US dollars. PT

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Tourism is The Commander; Sound from Behind of Bali Shimmer

By IBM. Dharma Palguna
Tourism is commander. That is what people said, not us. We listen what people said then we imitating. If we want to honest, Bali is leading to The Commander inauguration. And we proud of it, cause we have been desperately waiting a leader figure for along time. Without a leader in our life, we are like an orchestra without conductor. Our music life is no other that chaos it self. The tourism commander, we hope could lead us out of this multidimensional crisis. 

And for that purpose, we are all ready to sacrifice more for the commander. Besides sacrificing is the point/core of our school education, tourism has given us international identity as human with high culture, unique custom, paradise of the world, island of thousand deities, natural artist, and more other remarkable epithet. Those international identities that w-e got, and we used as a basic to build a new civilization which is unclear of the form. But we stand up proudly. We are ready to become a teacher for other region in this country which is still working hard to build their tourism business. Except tourism, what else we still belonging to be given to the world?

We owe imagery to the glorious tourism. Because before tourism coming, our ancestor known as savage society, which were burning widows remained husband death, exile or separate a mother bearing twin baby of boy and girl, throwing member of a village out of the village, burning other people’s property and also war between country sides in physical and mystique. Alhamdulilah (thanks god), tourism has scraped off that bad imagery. So, with all the potencies we have been increasingly saleable to sell. We must pay that imagery debt at this present. And we will. Because paying our debt is part of our teaching from our parent since we were child through various ritual method.

For us, tourism has become a teacher. It’s a real teacher, not just an imaginary teacher. We learn foreign language, new culture; new standardize ethics and manner until new taste of tongue. Tourism also often offers a new sight of life, a kind of adventurer spirituality. Whereas our original spirituality is a spirituality people live permanently, with a clear space of boundary and very tightening. The adventurer spirituality has enriched our agrarian spirituality. It can be seen from the changing of our perspective in life. We start thinking now. But no matter how far our thinking has flied, finally we must return to custom den. It was where we born and we are thought to choose our die. And before death, we will surely pay our debt to the tourism teacher.

According the custom, a debt to a teacher must be paid with devotes which the point is making the teacher happy. Ethically, relation between teachers his student based on affection and obedient. Teacher gives us affection abundance and mind protection. We feel safe under teacher’s protection. Because all responsibilities we could easily give it to the teacher wisdom. Such as; environmental damaged and ethics declines is not our responsibility, it is the responsibility of the teacher.

Student pays his debt with a total obedient. We show our obedient by not stepping across his authority. If he wanted more amount of land, wet or dry, we will deliver it without thinking twice. It is really harmonious relationship. its hardly in harmony and doesn’t leave space for con- flict. Coincidentally, we are men who love peace very much and living avoids conflicts. There for, our relationship with tourism as a pair of lover who has just made love for the first time. Everything is beautiful. Nothing could separate both of us.

Honestly, the relation of teacher- tourism with us as student is not going in balance. Strong and weak. The strong one pulls the weak one. Of course, the teachertourism was stand in strong position. Our weakness that make it strong and getting stronger. We keep trying to make him happy. We submit our heritage land, river, mount bank, chastity, holiness and etc. We have done total devoting; there is no more space remain which was not explored yet by him. Later, we would not endow this land now still exist to our kids, but proudly we would endow a commander who at the same time as a teacher called tourism. Hopefully, our descendants receive it proudly and appreciate our tiring devotion who would be ancestor at the future.

Until nowadays, teacher-tourism still love to receive devotions. Hence, he abundance award in form of material prosperity. By that material prosperity we renovate our holy building, we also make a bigger and various ritual. It is really harmonic relationship of teacher and student. That all we know about it’s up to now. We don’t know if there are many things hidden behind it. Cause we are not a designer. We are not investor, we are just worker. Some small conflict happens. Each con- flict we solve it prudently and very adult. We give in for miraculous utterance: for the shake of tourism.

Never asking for how long it harmonies could hang on. In our environment has born people with a short thinking. Just enjoying what present. Leave it future to the “time” Isn’t true that time is deity, Kala deity who we scare to and for that reason we worship to?

There is teacher keep moving and there are permanent teacher. Teacher that keep moving we call as kuntul anglayang, flying stork. He is downward in a fertile and beautiful rice field. After satisfied he continue flying toward other new promising rice field. Searching the tracks of flying stork is like looking for a day before the day which has elapsed. The big trouble will emerge when in the future the teacher-tourism has been inconvenient again at us and leave us to become teacher in other place. We will not be able to his responsibility. Cause he of course has resided and don’t know where. We are going to be like a student that lost his teacher in fact, we don’t graduate the lesson yet.

Word of “guru” in our language meant “heavy”. Living with teacher-tourism is difficult. When he died it would be heavier. Its from a heavy condition toward other heavier. So that the journey of our destiny. As a good student, we hardly depend on teacher. A critics student commonly hated by the teacher. Thanks god we are not critics student but a good student.

Beside as the teacher, tourism has rolled as a parent feeding to their children. In our custom, a child is claimed to obey his parent, not only when his parent still alive but also after his parent die. As a good child we have shown up devotes to tourism. We have never been disaffected him. A disaffected child would be cursed the old fellow. One or two child has ever tried to be critical. They didn’t criticize tourism but the investor. But we rarely know how investor shut them up. They work like a ghost. They are existing but invisible. Suddenly an area has been their authority.

And suddenly we are forbidden entering it. Although passing through it, we have been considered to bother comfort of foreigner. We never know what to do while facing “ghost” like that. Coincidently, there many real “ghost” in our island. There for the investor could be easily to camouflaging their self. It confusing us, which spirit we must submit this offering. We nearly could not differentiate between the real and the imitation.

It is unavoidable. We have deep debt to teacher-tourism. And the teacher has become the commander what else we can do except being his soldier. A soldier duty is fighting against all enemies groaning power the area of glorious tourism. The commander has shown enemies that should be watched. Any social distortion, no matter how small, is the enemy that potentially annoying tourism blood. Hence, social distortion not only being watched but also depressed and hidden. It is just example. There are many more enemies that was considered could threatening the royal of the commander. We will not enlist it. Because, its anxious we entangling people we recognized.

But don’t worry. We are enough knowing our self. Few of us that were alienated from the shimmer of tourism, it will not threatening the tourism continuity (ajeg). Nevertheless we create a poem about loneliness. We also never publicize I, like as pamphlet. We just keep it under our pillow. We do not want to annoy the feeling of our family and neighbors that their kitchens smoke from it. They will fulminate and angry. This life has been difficult, so don’t make it worse. Tourism just a field of economical thing, that a field to get money for their family. It is not concerning ideology. Not tradition, culture, civilization, “keajegan” and continuity. Those things are the business of “abstract” people that only understand what they do not need.

One only in awhile, we would real those poem. Small voice. Just in the deep of heart. We absolutely realize, what we really facing is not the commander. But our own family, our own neighbors. We are not willing to fight against our family and our neighbors. Hence, we let the commander as it is. Do we fail? No, we don’t. We just find. Does the commander win? No, he doesn’t. He is usual. We are a couple of lover who never bored to make love. On the sea, on the lake, on the river, on the hill, on the mount, in the temple, in market, every where we passing we make love. Not a piece of bomb could separate our hugging. Its not an erotic island but a home of tourist.

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Flaw within the Tourism

The development of the tourism industry in Bali is getting better after having crisis due to the first and the second Bali bomb blast. But the flaw within the tourism itself has occured and still occur before and after the bomb blast. It happens towards the tourists (domestic, foreign, and local tourists). They usually get unfair treatment.

This is the flaw within the tourism:
From the price view point the tourist, especially the foreigners are given a very high price. The art shops could inflate the price from 100% up to 400%. Wow! Maybe it will be fine for the rich tourists but not all of the tourists can accept that condition. It would be more reasonable to give normal price because it will give pleasure and comfort for them who are going to do shopping.

From the service point of view, the domestic and local tourists usually get less quality of services even though they pay the same price for it as the foreign tourists. However, it shows that there is customers’ segregation between the domestic/local tourists and the foreign ones.

Those such treatment are often experienced by the tourists. I met an Australian citizen who stays in Bali that sighed the expensive price of a new year trumpet which is offered by the vendor. He said, “He gave me an iflated price just because I have this face.” He pointed at his face while speaking. It just because he is a white person he got double price. The other complaint came from a friend of mine from Yogya, Middle Java. He was complaining the service of a hotel in Kuta where he stayed during his holiday. Everytime he was going to have lunch or dinner, the waiter/waitress always came and asked him to show his lucnh/dinner card and he had to pay in advance. Meanwhile they did not do the same thing to the foreign tourists.

Indirectly, these treatment create discrimination among people who are involved in the tourism industry. Wouldn’t it be better if the tourism goes fair and reasonable?
So, the flaw within the tourism can be abolished.

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2007 End of Year Wrap

The Wrap of 2007!
Bali is going through an amazing culinary journey. Not that many years ago the food offerings in Bali were mostly devoid of taste and value, both locals and foreigners operating restaurants that they believed presented cuisines of the world. Only one thing was missing, and that was the professional knowledge that can only come by experience, having been trained at the highest level.

The Bali of today boasts of many top-flight chefs. As many as can often be found in cities four times its size. Most, of course, work in the ever-increasing number of 5 star and boutique hotels and luxury villa complexes that seem to be opening almost monthly, all over the island. Others are finding their own style of peace in Bali, opening restaurants of their own, at both ends of the scale, classic dining down to great value mid range dining. As important is the ever increasing number of experienced restaurateurs who are arriving, to drive the revolution!

The BaliEats web site [www.balieats.com] now lists restaurants of some 54 different cuisines, the majority of which present high quality food at an amazingly low cost. During 2007 another 85 new restaurants opened in Bali that were of sufficient interest and quality to feature in my regular column in The Bali Advertiser. The following is a summary of the best of them.

Because of the high concentration of large 5 star hotels in the Nusa Dua and Tandjung Benoa area there has always been a lack of outside credible options. Needless to say many of the hotels have 5 or 6 outlets offering a variety of cuisines in order to keep their guests on the premises. The old city used to offer a range of moderately priced options, to tempt guests outside of the comfort of their hotels. This area suffered most from the Bali calamities, earlier in the decade, and only now shows signs of new life, but their entrance from the Nusa Dua hotel complex had currently been sealed off.

The Bali Collection replaced the Nusa Dua Gallery but has not been over-endowed with custom. One of its better restaurants, Tepi Laut, has moved recently to a more prominent position close to the main entrance, changed its name to Gedong Cafe and presents great value high quality cuisine. Their Giant Seafood Grill is one of their most popular offerings. In the old village the new Laguna Garden is typical of most, offering many different cuisines, what we call a tourist menu. Originally all menus in this area were in 3-4 languages, now almost without exception a Russian translation has been added.

At one of the newest hotels, Nusa Dua Novotel, which borders the golf course, is The Square, which considering the name is a strangely oval space with quite a range of modern and innovative cuisine at very reasonable prices for a hotel, Pomegranate-glazed Quail an example. Down in Tandjung Benoa is Lucky Duck, which not surprisingly features duck on the menu, done many different ways. Whilst the Duck Burger and the Duck Pizza are most unusual, Roast Duck, Confit of Duck and a Grilled Duck with an orange glaze are far more traditional. There is also their version of Ubuds Crispy Duck.

Tuban saw the arrival of old Kuta stalwart, Mini. Almost as big as the still functioning original but modern, clean and sparkling. This Mini has the same menu mix of live seafood, grilled or pan-fried, a myriad of accompanying dipping sauces, and a full menu of Indonesian Chinese favourites, all at reasonable prices. Their Mixed Seafood Special of Prawns, Fish, Crab, Squid, Clams and Lobster meat at Rp. 94,000++ is a showstopper!

Ifiori opened on the site of the ill-fated Wet, in Jln. Kartika Plaza, in front of Waterbom Park. It is a two level restaurant offering good value Italian food, and under the same management as Pappas in Legian. Further along at the Ramayana complex is Gabah, which was initially under the direction of Patrick Chauchereau [ex Lola].

At Kuta all of the restaurants that opened were out on the new Bypass, Sunset Road, although many of those who originally opened there have already closed. The later ones are more grand and with more experience behind them. Sushi Tei is a branch of Japans largest Sushi franchise which includes the first sushi train in Bali. The a la carte selection is enormous, some traditional others modern and with unusual combinations. The Grill House is Korean and features Bulgogi, marinated beef that you cook at the table, or you can grill Modemgui [Japanese style Shasliks], Sweet Beef or Pork Ribs [Doeji Galbi] on the grill in the centre of your table.

Harmony looks like a Chinese restaurant and it is except that all the meat [beef, pork, duck and chicken] and seafood [fish, prawns and squid] dishes are vegetarian versions thereof. They are all made from soya bean but presented as the real thing, and in many cases with the authentic sauces and flavouring they almost deceive. There is Beijing Smoked Duck, Babi Panggang [roasted pork], Cumi Tong Yam [squid with a tangy Cantonese sauce], and even imitation sardines, Ikan Sardencis with chilli and tomato, which happens to be just about their most popular dish.

The Seminyak-Kerobokan area had its usual rush of new restaurants, some totally new but most replacing previously failed ones. The Chat Café, under the guiding hands of Marinos [ex Mykonos Tavernas] led the way with a café/lounge bar that worked from the first week. Apart from cheap tasty food they also offer free internet, as do an ever-increasing number of cafes and small restaurants in Bali, though so far mostly in the Seminyak and Ubud areas. Just down the road is Café Marzano, totally Italian, featuring wood-fired pizzas, pastas galore and many Italians.

Nirvana opened on the site of the old Spy Bar, a stylish bar at the front and French restaurant in the rear garden courtyard. Across the road was the immediately successful San Marco Osteria, which closed prematurely due the tragic sudden death of Mr. Sin.

On the main road the old Afghan restaurant re-opened as Kholifar with similar offerings of Middle Eastern cuisine such as entrees of Lahem Bilajeen [three crisp fried pastry shells stuffed with a spicy lamb mince], mains of Chicken or Mutton Vegetable Korma [with onions, potatoes, green chillies, garlic and ginger, all slowly cooked] or a high fibre vegetarian dish, Chole Maslah [chickpeas, tomato, onion and garlic]. All to be enjoyed whilst seated amongst Arabian and Persian carpets. The Swedish Veranda became the Brazilian Rio [under Finnish management] offering a full Brazilian Churrasco [5 salad starters followed by 7 different meats all cut from the giant skewer, after being cooked in the flames. Includes a Pork in Marsala and a perfect Australian tenderloin, as well as an interesting selection of a la carte items.

Kerobokan hosted its usual rash of new restaurants, many of which have already closed. Those remaining include Med with a Pecan-crusted Chicken with a honey orange cream sauce or Moroccan Prawns with a tabouleh cous-cous and a spicy harisa, and Sasa offering entrees such as Sepplioline alla Griglia con Patate e Insalata [grilled baby squids served with a warm potato salad] or a home-made pasta such as Fettuccine con Gamberi [with king prawns with wine and herbs]. Café Bali opened in colonial style premises next to big brother, Khaima, offering entrees from around the world.

Others on Eat Street included Fresh, a sushi bar operated by the ex-manager of the very popular trendy Wasabi of a few years back [extraordinary California Rolls wrapped around Foie Gras, duck liver and mango with hazelnuts, as well as other options including Spicy Butterfish or Salmon, Scallop and Cream Cheese]. Mezzo became only the 2nd on the street to offer cool air-conditioned premises as well as the first with a rear garden courtyard. It has simple food well presented, including very cheap full breakfasts, and special coffee blends, including Ethiopian, making it a place to constantly return to.

Grocer & Grind provided something very different with its very Australian bistro style and accompanying deli. Normal egg breakfasts; Benedict, Florentine or just Eggs with choice of bacon, lamb sausage, mushrooms or rosti. For lunch; snacks, salads or a perfect Panini on Ciabattini. Dinner is all change with casual bistro dining such as their Prawn Cherviche, juicy prawns tossed with sliced mango in coriander, meaty Lamb Sausages or large very tender Lamb Shanks.

In the Sentosa Villas was Blossom, something so new for Bali! From the designers of Australias trendy Longrain restaurants there are similarities but this one has style and class! It began with wonderful Thai food from Will Meyrick and quickly established itself as one of Asias finest! Within a few short months Blossom achieved what many others fail to do at all, yet a management decision saw the departure of their chef. A ready replacement was fortunately available; Chris Patzold, well known to Balis diners after being the original chef at Ku de Ta [back when the food was both great and cheap] and subsequently at Axiom. The most popular Thai offerings have been retained but now with the addition of the Patzold signature dishes. Best of both worlds!

On the Petitenget side was Eropa Warung with French food at warung prices and Da Margherita with classical Italian dishes, also very reasonably priced. Dahana, still a secret to most in Bali, was the surprise of this area. It is a private house and gallery that hosts a family-style Japanese restaurant in a garden setting. Almost hidden behind a white wall and private entrance.

Around the back of the Kerobokan Jail a totally authentic Hungarian restaurant to be found, Bistro Budapest, featuring Gulyasleves [Goulash] in every form. The famous soup combines beef, carrots and potato in a rich paprika broth, but there are also many forms with stewed meat; Sertesporkoct [pork], Paprikascsirke [chicken], Marhaporkoct [beef], and for the vegetarians, Gombaporkoct with mushrooms.

Renon, Denpasar, saw the opening of Kowloon, quickly changing its name to Feyloon. Genuine Cantonese food, specializing in seafood from the many live tanks around the walls.

Sanur continued its revival. New restaurants such as the Russian Slavyanka offer a new variety in fine dining [Shaved Frozen Venison with a pinch of salt, Caviar of every type, Chicken Livers with apple and onion and the Ukranian Borsh [a hearty soup of pork, potatoes cabbage, onion, carrot and beetroot]. SixPoint opened with a very International menu [they are an offshoot of Papas] that included Grilled Turkey Breast. Coriander has a range of Thai cuisine, Red and Green Curries, Tod Mun Pla [fish cakes], Yum Neau [seared marinated beef strips with cooling cucumber], among its International offerings. Piccadilly replaced the long gone Mykonos, more of a pub than restaurant. The Porch Café offers wonderful sandwiches, salads and small daily specials.

The revolution in Ubud slowed to a walk. No wonder with so many new places opening over the past 5 years. In Sanggingan is Man Maru opened, mainly Japanese [wonderful terryaki] with a few spicy Korean offerings [sliced lotus bulb]. Up on the hill at Penestanan was one of the finds of the year. Mendez, longtime personal chef for Warwick Purser, opened his own small warung offering Goat Legs and Beef Ribs, using old Yogya recipes, simmering for hours then marinating in Javanese spice pastes. Sweet tender meat, wonderful value in simple surroundings. $10 for two, what value!

Candi Dasa continued to slowly get its act together. The revamped Rama CandiDasa opened Garpu, under the direction of Patrick Chauchereau [ex Lola]. At that stage the food presented was quite exceptional, wonderful breads baked on the premises, pates en croute, etc. Now we wait with baited breath for the opening of Patricks new bistro restaurant in Seminyak, Feb 2008! A quiet achiever in the northern part of Candi Dasa was Aquaria, a New Zealand operation with just a choice of two dishes, entrée, main and dessert, for lunch and dinner [one always a vegetarian option] at their pleasant small boutique hotel. Simple food and great value in a pleasant relaxed location.

Amed continued its opening and re-opening of small locally operated warungs. The successful Wayans Warung opened a 2nd, Café Cest Bon, opposite Santai, TPC became Maharasti II, the rebuilt Vienna Beach now offers a smart restaurant with new immaculately clean kitchen, and some of the best beach views in the area. For something completely different another New Zealand operation began at Sails [eventually to be a part of the Horizon Resort], on the headland between Lipah Beach and Lean. It has sensational ocean views. Some Western [Steaks and Ribs], some Indo Chinese [Chicken Mandarin] but all cooked a little different from other local places, a cut above the rest!

Lovina saw the demise of a few and the arrival of a whole host of newbies; Amadeus has an Austrian influence, Wiener Schnitchels and Goulash on certain days. Down at the beach is a mall place with value, Tropis Bistro, with the chef and menu from the old Kwizien [Pate des Ardennes, Steak Rocquefort, etc.]. Surprising newcomer is Chonos, a BBQ restaurant with a difference! A tray of lava stones are inlaid into the top of smart wooden tables, seated above a gas ring. Order your meats and show what you can do. This place is going to become very popular! Congrats to people who dare to be different!

Once again, 2008 promises much. A new Thai restaurant, opposite Gado-Gado, and a French Bistro with one of Balis greatest chefs, both in Seminyak. To cap it all off the return of the prodigal one more time, small select Thai, Vietnamese and Malay Indian menus at Will Meyricks new venture [site of the old Esmerada] in Jln Petitenget, Kerobokan.

Bali just keeps on getting better, and the great value remains the same!

Gerry Williams
gerry@balieats.com

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