Goa Gajah The Elephant Cave -Part1

The name Elephant Cave” perhaps originated with early visitors, mistakenly interpreting the monster”™s head as an elephant, or from villagers with the same misunderstanding. There may also be a (much order) connection with gajah.

A Balinese place name Lwa Gajah, “œElephant Water,” is in fact mentioned in the 1365 Nagarakertagama as the seat of high Buddhist official. Since it occurs immediately after Badahulu (nearby Bedulu)this Lwa Gajah, named for some reason unknown to us, may very well have later given its name to the cave.

After his first visit to the site, Nieuwenkamp rightly had doubts about the head above the cave being an elephant”™s. Its face was badly damaged (hence the earlier reference to a “œmouth”). There was no sign of a trunk. Neither the ears nor the ear ornament suggested an elephant (or could the big eyes, of which only the right remains, give that idea!).

For some time the question remained unanswered, but a clearing of the rock”™s surface and recent restorations left no doubt about there being no elephant whatever in the rock wall. The cave lies south of the road, several metes bellows its level, and must be reached by a steep by steep path. Whereas for a long time since its discovery, the situation of the elephant Cave and the little pura in front of it had not notably changed, the 1954 excavation of the watering place gave a new character to the cave”™s surroundings.

The interior cave was first reconnoitered by, Nieuwenkamp, who paid no attention to bystanders”™ remarks that “œthere was nothing inside.” The cave consists of a man made Tshaped excavation opening to the south. Recent research has revealed that there may have been a stone screen (in modern Bali called alingaling, comparable to the kelir protecting Javanese entrances ) in front of the cave”™s entrance.

Such screen safeguard dwellings and sanctuaries against evil influences. According to Balinese views, such influences may be expected from the south which the cave faces. In Central and South Bali south is kelod, “œtowards the sea” and the Nether World, thus dangerous.

The entrance, 2 meters high and only 1 meter wide, leads to a very dark interior. The T”™s straight leg consist of a porch (2 meterwide) and a passage (1 meter wide) which together penetrate into the rock over a depth of around 9 meters. The T”™s crossbeam covers about 13.5 meters, to a width of 2.75 meters. The cave contains 15 niches hewn out of the wall. Some of them are along (those either side of the porch 2 meters to a depth of 90 cm; those in the passage 1.8 meters to a depth of 1 meter); they may have served as sleeping places.

Those along the lateral passage are short (seven niches along the north wallmaximum 126 cm high, around 100 cm wide, 135 cm deep-and two niches in the south wall-65 and 90 cm, to a depth of 75 cm) and may have served various purposes. The niches at the western and eastern extremities are 80 cm and 140 cm respectively, to a height of 80 cm each. Since Niuwenkamp”™s first report on the Elephant Cave there have been some pieces of sculpture in the end niches of the lateral passages: a four-armed Ganesha (height 105 cm) in the left wing, a set of three linggas (height 46.5cm) placed side by side on the same pedestal (length 113 cm) at the opposite end. Each of the linggas is surrounded by eigth smaller ones.

The whole set is hewn out of one piece of stone. Ganesha being Siva”™s elephantine son, and the lingga being Siva”™s distinctive, does not necessarily stamp the cave a Sivaistic sanctuary at all, it migt also have been a Buddhist one. To The right of the entrance are two vaguely engraved graffiti in the wall (inside), one above the other. The upper one seems older than the second (written in larger type), and recalls the writing of an A.D. 1074 inscription. The engravings read kamon (or kumon), and sahy (v) angsa. The meaning is not clear. If the writing is correctly dated (second half of the 11th century) the cave itself might have been made early in the same century. Sculptures found in the neighborhood cover a longer timespan.

The cave has been cut into a projecting part (height around 4.5 meters) of a rock wall whose surface was simultaneously straightened on either side, the more to emphasize the salient, which has a flat surface. We sometimes get the impression that the flat top of a recluse”™s cave was used for meditation. There is indeed a flight of steps in the rock (to the right); it does not, however, reach the salient”™s top. (there is a rectangular niche at the end of the steps). The situations is ambiguous.

The salient”™s front and lateral faces are entirely covered with sculpture suggesting stylized mountain scenery interspersed with large and forcefully modeled leaves. Animal, monsters, and anthropomorphic phantom climb the rocks, peep around corners, or comprise funny scenes, such as a bear (?) kept on a leash (or prodded with a long stick?) by a goblin, safely lying on a salient over the animal”™s back.

The animal kingdom is further represented by snake in its hole, another highly stylized snake (?), a tortoise, and some indistinct animal. Two little figures climb a rock: one, whose loincloth is sliding down, has genitals showing. In addition there are a monster”™s head with pointed ears, a lingga or broken statuette (?),etc. This baroque scene present a mysterious mountain forest, set apart from the civilized world of human beings”¦”¦to be continued

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The Balinese Warung

Sidarta Wijaya

A warung is an Indonesian term for a small roadside stall that sells snacks, drinks and convenient household items. However, in Bali a warung is also the local coffee house, corner store and community meeting spot for neighbours to sit and exchange the latest news or gossip. Every village has at least a dozen warung’s that serve the daily needs of locals and anyone else who happens to pass by. Some warung’s are crude makeshift structures of bamboo and oddments of timber, while others may be a more permanent construction built as an afterthought on the outer perimeter of the family compound.


The general setup of a warung is fairly basic, consisting of aged wooden benches for customers to sit upon. Goods are displayed in glass canisters on shelves or spread across large plastic covered tabled that can be wiped down with a damp cloth. Fresh fruit sits on mismatched plates next to capped bottles of coca cola, the latest release of flavoured bubblegum and small bags of fried peanuts. Colourful packets of potato chips are strung up on lengths of wire hanging from the roof along with individual sachets of mosquito repellant, shampoo, washing powder and instant coffee. Most Balinese warung’s are a chaotic jumble of goods and sometimes even the vendor can’t remember where things are kept.

Owning a warung does not really generate a great income as most goods are sold for just a few hundred rupiah above the recommended retail price. But the main benefit for a warung proprietor is that the work is flexible and if it is attached to their home they can go about their other daily household chores in between sales. Opening a small warung is a popular means of employment for married women as they can literally ‘take care of the shop’ whilst suckling a newborn infant or prepare the numerous offerings required for Balinese Hindu ceremonies and rituals.As the Balinese habitually snack throughout the course of the day, the warung is the ideal spot to satiate one’s appetite with a sweet sticky rice cake and a tall glass of aromatic coffee. Children come to buy cheap candies and imitation soda drinks cooled with chunks of ice. When the afternoon draws to a close the menfolk flock to their local warung clutching their prize fighting roosters to socialize, discuss recent events, analyze the headlines of the daily newspaper and share bottles of warm beer. Many warung’s provide customers with a small platform-like seat constructed from strips of bamboo where a group of men can sit cross-legged in their sarongs to play chess, dominoes and traditional card games.

Warung’s in rural villages often stay open until late night and served alcoholic beverages. These potent wines, brewed from fermented rice and palm juice, are a cheap alternative to imported liquors. The warung’s that serve such beverages are especially popular at the weekends with teenage youth in areas where nightlife entertainment is limited.

Warung’s also function as convenience stores and prevent unnecessary trips to the market for items such as cooking oil, sugar, shampoo or dish washing detergent. Most goods are sold in single use sachets and packets, although this excess of plastic is playing havoc with Bali’s waste control system. Many warung’s these days either have a television set or radio blaring in the background to help the seller relieve the long hours between sales.

The most unique aspect of the traditional Balinese warung is that it operates on an honour system. Customers help themselves to the array of snacks on display and the charge is calculated after consumption. This is a sign of trust; nevertheless, a shrewd proprietor will always keep a sharp eye out for just how many packets of shrimp crackers or shelled peanuts have been eaten.

In an era where shopping malls and trendy cafes have sprung up all over the island, there still remains a place in Balinese society for the humble warung. For many there is a sense of comfort in sitting at the warung with friends and neighbours in familiar surroundings that are void of pretentious consumerism.

Photo by Wijaya

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Guwang The Traditional Art Market

If you came to the Balinese Island to go on holiday, more incomplete if not bringing the present as souvenir/the souvenir. Especially Balinese diligence. Many places that could be visited by you to get this diligence. Among them you could come to the traditional artistic markets like the Kumbasari art Market in Street Gajah Mada - Denpasar, Sukawati the traditional art market,Gianyar, Ubud the traditional art market-Gianyar art, Kuta the traditional art market- Badung, and Guwang the traditional art market -Gianyar Bali.

Shopped in the art market will give the memory and the experience trsendiri. Here your expertise in bargaining the thing will in the test, be compared if you shopped in Art shop or the supermarket that has had banderol [fix price] remained chose and paid in the cashier.

When you decided to come to the traditional Balinese art market, to try to come to the art market Guwang that was located in the village guwang, the Sukawati Sub district, Gianyar Regency. This traditional artistic market began to be opened at 8.00 wita to the hour 18.00.wita, his place then really was easy to be covered because indeed was in the main road headed Ubud, sukawati, Mas, and the city Gianyar.

The area parked that was quite wide made the atmosphere be not too chaotic, you even relaxed shopped and enjoyed the atmosphere and the environment around the market.

The craftsman at the same time as the trader in this market around 500 people, so imaginable how many the artistic kind traditional that in sold in this market.

Beginning with socks, the statue, bad cover, the painting, the bag, complexities, relief, etc. The price that was offered then was competitive enough, moreover if you had the expertise in bargaining the thing. You felt you were challenged, please came and was safe to adventuring

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Bali Predominate Craft Export

The creativity of Balinese craft in creating various artistic craft to fulfill the demand of international market has already well known by the overseas importer. Kasubdin of foreign trade of Bali Trading department, Ni Wayan Kusumawathi said “various craft of Bali have a great demand in international market, especially in Uni Eropa, United States, Japan and some other Asian countries”

She affirm that realization value of various craft of Bali on January to July 2007 period was 138.814.257,19 US dollars, it raised 14, 20 percents from the same period at 2006 which was only 121.548.851,09 US dollars. Further, she tells that these acquirement of exchange foreign come from 17 commodity. Silver ornament, wood statue, ceramics, bamboo craft, waxy craft and painting sold to 79 countries in the world. Various commerce of art goods made in Balinese craft maker still predominate crafting export to international markets. As a prove, the average of Bali export commodity value keep increasing.

She explained more that the commodity of music equipment increasing until 105,73 percent and the value of wood craft export increase 29,18 US dollars from 43.445.011,81 US dollars. While commodity of silver craft in form of rings, necklace, circle and ear stud during January to July 2007 period have yielded foreign exchange 1.403.018,70 US dollars or rising 3.3210,03 percent compared to the same period in 2006which only yielded foreign exchange 41.011,60 US dollars. PT

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Tourism is The Commander; Sound from Behind of Bali Shimmer

By IBM. Dharma Palguna
Tourism is commander. That is what people said, not us. We listen what people said then we imitating. If we want to honest, Bali is leading to The Commander inauguration. And we proud of it, cause we have been desperately waiting a leader figure for along time. Without a leader in our life, we are like an orchestra without conductor. Our music life is no other that chaos it self. The tourism commander, we hope could lead us out of this multidimensional crisis. 

And for that purpose, we are all ready to sacrifice more for the commander. Besides sacrificing is the point/core of our school education, tourism has given us international identity as human with high culture, unique custom, paradise of the world, island of thousand deities, natural artist, and more other remarkable epithet. Those international identities that w-e got, and we used as a basic to build a new civilization which is unclear of the form. But we stand up proudly. We are ready to become a teacher for other region in this country which is still working hard to build their tourism business. Except tourism, what else we still belonging to be given to the world?

We owe imagery to the glorious tourism. Because before tourism coming, our ancestor known as savage society, which were burning widows remained husband death, exile or separate a mother bearing twin baby of boy and girl, throwing member of a village out of the village, burning other people’s property and also war between country sides in physical and mystique. Alhamdulilah (thanks god), tourism has scraped off that bad imagery. So, with all the potencies we have been increasingly saleable to sell. We must pay that imagery debt at this present. And we will. Because paying our debt is part of our teaching from our parent since we were child through various ritual method.

For us, tourism has become a teacher. It’s a real teacher, not just an imaginary teacher. We learn foreign language, new culture; new standardize ethics and manner until new taste of tongue. Tourism also often offers a new sight of life, a kind of adventurer spirituality. Whereas our original spirituality is a spirituality people live permanently, with a clear space of boundary and very tightening. The adventurer spirituality has enriched our agrarian spirituality. It can be seen from the changing of our perspective in life. We start thinking now. But no matter how far our thinking has flied, finally we must return to custom den. It was where we born and we are thought to choose our die. And before death, we will surely pay our debt to the tourism teacher.

According the custom, a debt to a teacher must be paid with devotes which the point is making the teacher happy. Ethically, relation between teachers his student based on affection and obedient. Teacher gives us affection abundance and mind protection. We feel safe under teacher’s protection. Because all responsibilities we could easily give it to the teacher wisdom. Such as; environmental damaged and ethics declines is not our responsibility, it is the responsibility of the teacher.

Student pays his debt with a total obedient. We show our obedient by not stepping across his authority. If he wanted more amount of land, wet or dry, we will deliver it without thinking twice. It is really harmonious relationship. its hardly in harmony and doesn’t leave space for con- flict. Coincidentally, we are men who love peace very much and living avoids conflicts. There for, our relationship with tourism as a pair of lover who has just made love for the first time. Everything is beautiful. Nothing could separate both of us.

Honestly, the relation of teacher- tourism with us as student is not going in balance. Strong and weak. The strong one pulls the weak one. Of course, the teachertourism was stand in strong position. Our weakness that make it strong and getting stronger. We keep trying to make him happy. We submit our heritage land, river, mount bank, chastity, holiness and etc. We have done total devoting; there is no more space remain which was not explored yet by him. Later, we would not endow this land now still exist to our kids, but proudly we would endow a commander who at the same time as a teacher called tourism. Hopefully, our descendants receive it proudly and appreciate our tiring devotion who would be ancestor at the future.

Until nowadays, teacher-tourism still love to receive devotions. Hence, he abundance award in form of material prosperity. By that material prosperity we renovate our holy building, we also make a bigger and various ritual. It is really harmonic relationship of teacher and student. That all we know about it’s up to now. We don’t know if there are many things hidden behind it. Cause we are not a designer. We are not investor, we are just worker. Some small conflict happens. Each con- flict we solve it prudently and very adult. We give in for miraculous utterance: for the shake of tourism.

Never asking for how long it harmonies could hang on. In our environment has born people with a short thinking. Just enjoying what present. Leave it future to the “time” Isn’t true that time is deity, Kala deity who we scare to and for that reason we worship to?

There is teacher keep moving and there are permanent teacher. Teacher that keep moving we call as kuntul anglayang, flying stork. He is downward in a fertile and beautiful rice field. After satisfied he continue flying toward other new promising rice field. Searching the tracks of flying stork is like looking for a day before the day which has elapsed. The big trouble will emerge when in the future the teacher-tourism has been inconvenient again at us and leave us to become teacher in other place. We will not be able to his responsibility. Cause he of course has resided and don’t know where. We are going to be like a student that lost his teacher in fact, we don’t graduate the lesson yet.

Word of “guru” in our language meant “heavy”. Living with teacher-tourism is difficult. When he died it would be heavier. Its from a heavy condition toward other heavier. So that the journey of our destiny. As a good student, we hardly depend on teacher. A critics student commonly hated by the teacher. Thanks god we are not critics student but a good student.

Beside as the teacher, tourism has rolled as a parent feeding to their children. In our custom, a child is claimed to obey his parent, not only when his parent still alive but also after his parent die. As a good child we have shown up devotes to tourism. We have never been disaffected him. A disaffected child would be cursed the old fellow. One or two child has ever tried to be critical. They didn’t criticize tourism but the investor. But we rarely know how investor shut them up. They work like a ghost. They are existing but invisible. Suddenly an area has been their authority.

And suddenly we are forbidden entering it. Although passing through it, we have been considered to bother comfort of foreigner. We never know what to do while facing “ghost” like that. Coincidently, there many real “ghost” in our island. There for the investor could be easily to camouflaging their self. It confusing us, which spirit we must submit this offering. We nearly could not differentiate between the real and the imitation.

It is unavoidable. We have deep debt to teacher-tourism. And the teacher has become the commander what else we can do except being his soldier. A soldier duty is fighting against all enemies groaning power the area of glorious tourism. The commander has shown enemies that should be watched. Any social distortion, no matter how small, is the enemy that potentially annoying tourism blood. Hence, social distortion not only being watched but also depressed and hidden. It is just example. There are many more enemies that was considered could threatening the royal of the commander. We will not enlist it. Because, its anxious we entangling people we recognized.

But don’t worry. We are enough knowing our self. Few of us that were alienated from the shimmer of tourism, it will not threatening the tourism continuity (ajeg). Nevertheless we create a poem about loneliness. We also never publicize I, like as pamphlet. We just keep it under our pillow. We do not want to annoy the feeling of our family and neighbors that their kitchens smoke from it. They will fulminate and angry. This life has been difficult, so don’t make it worse. Tourism just a field of economical thing, that a field to get money for their family. It is not concerning ideology. Not tradition, culture, civilization, “keajegan” and continuity. Those things are the business of “abstract” people that only understand what they do not need.

One only in awhile, we would real those poem. Small voice. Just in the deep of heart. We absolutely realize, what we really facing is not the commander. But our own family, our own neighbors. We are not willing to fight against our family and our neighbors. Hence, we let the commander as it is. Do we fail? No, we don’t. We just find. Does the commander win? No, he doesn’t. He is usual. We are a couple of lover who never bored to make love. On the sea, on the lake, on the river, on the hill, on the mount, in the temple, in market, every where we passing we make love. Not a piece of bomb could separate our hugging. Its not an erotic island but a home of tourist.

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Flaw within the Tourism

The development of the tourism industry in Bali is getting better after having crisis due to the first and the second Bali bomb blast. But the flaw within the tourism itself has occured and still occur before and after the bomb blast. It happens towards the tourists (domestic, foreign, and local tourists). They usually get unfair treatment.

This is the flaw within the tourism:
From the price view point the tourist, especially the foreigners are given a very high price. The art shops could inflate the price from 100% up to 400%. Wow! Maybe it will be fine for the rich tourists but not all of the tourists can accept that condition. It would be more reasonable to give normal price because it will give pleasure and comfort for them who are going to do shopping.

From the service point of view, the domestic and local tourists usually get less quality of services even though they pay the same price for it as the foreign tourists. However, it shows that there is customers’ segregation between the domestic/local tourists and the foreign ones.

Those such treatment are often experienced by the tourists. I met an Australian citizen who stays in Bali that sighed the expensive price of a new year trumpet which is offered by the vendor. He said, “He gave me an iflated price just because I have this face.” He pointed at his face while speaking. It just because he is a white person he got double price. The other complaint came from a friend of mine from Yogya, Middle Java. He was complaining the service of a hotel in Kuta where he stayed during his holiday. Everytime he was going to have lunch or dinner, the waiter/waitress always came and asked him to show his lucnh/dinner card and he had to pay in advance. Meanwhile they did not do the same thing to the foreign tourists.

Indirectly, these treatment create discrimination among people who are involved in the tourism industry. Wouldn’t it be better if the tourism goes fair and reasonable?
So, the flaw within the tourism can be abolished.

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2007 End of Year Wrap

The Wrap of 2007!
Bali is going through an amazing culinary journey. Not that many years ago the food offerings in Bali were mostly devoid of taste and value, both locals and foreigners operating restaurants that they believed presented cuisines of the world. Only one thing was missing, and that was the professional knowledge that can only come by experience, having been trained at the highest level.

The Bali of today boasts of many top-flight chefs. As many as can often be found in cities four times its size. Most, of course, work in the ever-increasing number of 5 star and boutique hotels and luxury villa complexes that seem to be opening almost monthly, all over the island. Others are finding their own style of peace in Bali, opening restaurants of their own, at both ends of the scale, classic dining down to great value mid range dining. As important is the ever increasing number of experienced restaurateurs who are arriving, to drive the revolution!

The BaliEats web site [www.balieats.com] now lists restaurants of some 54 different cuisines, the majority of which present high quality food at an amazingly low cost. During 2007 another 85 new restaurants opened in Bali that were of sufficient interest and quality to feature in my regular column in The Bali Advertiser. The following is a summary of the best of them.

Because of the high concentration of large 5 star hotels in the Nusa Dua and Tandjung Benoa area there has always been a lack of outside credible options. Needless to say many of the hotels have 5 or 6 outlets offering a variety of cuisines in order to keep their guests on the premises. The old city used to offer a range of moderately priced options, to tempt guests outside of the comfort of their hotels. This area suffered most from the Bali calamities, earlier in the decade, and only now shows signs of new life, but their entrance from the Nusa Dua hotel complex had currently been sealed off.

The Bali Collection replaced the Nusa Dua Gallery but has not been over-endowed with custom. One of its better restaurants, Tepi Laut, has moved recently to a more prominent position close to the main entrance, changed its name to Gedong Cafe and presents great value high quality cuisine. Their Giant Seafood Grill is one of their most popular offerings. In the old village the new Laguna Garden is typical of most, offering many different cuisines, what we call a tourist menu. Originally all menus in this area were in 3-4 languages, now almost without exception a Russian translation has been added.

At one of the newest hotels, Nusa Dua Novotel, which borders the golf course, is The Square, which considering the name is a strangely oval space with quite a range of modern and innovative cuisine at very reasonable prices for a hotel, Pomegranate-glazed Quail an example. Down in Tandjung Benoa is Lucky Duck, which not surprisingly features duck on the menu, done many different ways. Whilst the Duck Burger and the Duck Pizza are most unusual, Roast Duck, Confit of Duck and a Grilled Duck with an orange glaze are far more traditional. There is also their version of Ubuds Crispy Duck.

Tuban saw the arrival of old Kuta stalwart, Mini. Almost as big as the still functioning original but modern, clean and sparkling. This Mini has the same menu mix of live seafood, grilled or pan-fried, a myriad of accompanying dipping sauces, and a full menu of Indonesian Chinese favourites, all at reasonable prices. Their Mixed Seafood Special of Prawns, Fish, Crab, Squid, Clams and Lobster meat at Rp. 94,000++ is a showstopper!

Ifiori opened on the site of the ill-fated Wet, in Jln. Kartika Plaza, in front of Waterbom Park. It is a two level restaurant offering good value Italian food, and under the same management as Pappas in Legian. Further along at the Ramayana complex is Gabah, which was initially under the direction of Patrick Chauchereau [ex Lola].

At Kuta all of the restaurants that opened were out on the new Bypass, Sunset Road, although many of those who originally opened there have already closed. The later ones are more grand and with more experience behind them. Sushi Tei is a branch of Japans largest Sushi franchise which includes the first sushi train in Bali. The a la carte selection is enormous, some traditional others modern and with unusual combinations. The Grill House is Korean and features Bulgogi, marinated beef that you cook at the table, or you can grill Modemgui [Japanese style Shasliks], Sweet Beef or Pork Ribs [Doeji Galbi] on the grill in the centre of your table.

Harmony looks like a Chinese restaurant and it is except that all the meat [beef, pork, duck and chicken] and seafood [fish, prawns and squid] dishes are vegetarian versions thereof. They are all made from soya bean but presented as the real thing, and in many cases with the authentic sauces and flavouring they almost deceive. There is Beijing Smoked Duck, Babi Panggang [roasted pork], Cumi Tong Yam [squid with a tangy Cantonese sauce], and even imitation sardines, Ikan Sardencis with chilli and tomato, which happens to be just about their most popular dish.

The Seminyak-Kerobokan area had its usual rush of new restaurants, some totally new but most replacing previously failed ones. The Chat Café, under the guiding hands of Marinos [ex Mykonos Tavernas] led the way with a café/lounge bar that worked from the first week. Apart from cheap tasty food they also offer free internet, as do an ever-increasing number of cafes and small restaurants in Bali, though so far mostly in the Seminyak and Ubud areas. Just down the road is Café Marzano, totally Italian, featuring wood-fired pizzas, pastas galore and many Italians.

Nirvana opened on the site of the old Spy Bar, a stylish bar at the front and French restaurant in the rear garden courtyard. Across the road was the immediately successful San Marco Osteria, which closed prematurely due the tragic sudden death of Mr. Sin.

On the main road the old Afghan restaurant re-opened as Kholifar with similar offerings of Middle Eastern cuisine such as entrees of Lahem Bilajeen [three crisp fried pastry shells stuffed with a spicy lamb mince], mains of Chicken or Mutton Vegetable Korma [with onions, potatoes, green chillies, garlic and ginger, all slowly cooked] or a high fibre vegetarian dish, Chole Maslah [chickpeas, tomato, onion and garlic]. All to be enjoyed whilst seated amongst Arabian and Persian carpets. The Swedish Veranda became the Brazilian Rio [under Finnish management] offering a full Brazilian Churrasco [5 salad starters followed by 7 different meats all cut from the giant skewer, after being cooked in the flames. Includes a Pork in Marsala and a perfect Australian tenderloin, as well as an interesting selection of a la carte items.

Kerobokan hosted its usual rash of new restaurants, many of which have already closed. Those remaining include Med with a Pecan-crusted Chicken with a honey orange cream sauce or Moroccan Prawns with a tabouleh cous-cous and a spicy harisa, and Sasa offering entrees such as Sepplioline alla Griglia con Patate e Insalata [grilled baby squids served with a warm potato salad] or a home-made pasta such as Fettuccine con Gamberi [with king prawns with wine and herbs]. Café Bali opened in colonial style premises next to big brother, Khaima, offering entrees from around the world.

Others on Eat Street included Fresh, a sushi bar operated by the ex-manager of the very popular trendy Wasabi of a few years back [extraordinary California Rolls wrapped around Foie Gras, duck liver and mango with hazelnuts, as well as other options including Spicy Butterfish or Salmon, Scallop and Cream Cheese]. Mezzo became only the 2nd on the street to offer cool air-conditioned premises as well as the first with a rear garden courtyard. It has simple food well presented, including very cheap full breakfasts, and special coffee blends, including Ethiopian, making it a place to constantly return to.

Grocer & Grind provided something very different with its very Australian bistro style and accompanying deli. Normal egg breakfasts; Benedict, Florentine or just Eggs with choice of bacon, lamb sausage, mushrooms or rosti. For lunch; snacks, salads or a perfect Panini on Ciabattini. Dinner is all change with casual bistro dining such as their Prawn Cherviche, juicy prawns tossed with sliced mango in coriander, meaty Lamb Sausages or large very tender Lamb Shanks.

In the Sentosa Villas was Blossom, something so new for Bali! From the designers of Australias trendy Longrain restaurants there are similarities but this one has style and class! It began with wonderful Thai food from Will Meyrick and quickly established itself as one of Asias finest! Within a few short months Blossom achieved what many others fail to do at all, yet a management decision saw the departure of their chef. A ready replacement was fortunately available; Chris Patzold, well known to Balis diners after being the original chef at Ku de Ta [back when the food was both great and cheap] and subsequently at Axiom. The most popular Thai offerings have been retained but now with the addition of the Patzold signature dishes. Best of both worlds!

On the Petitenget side was Eropa Warung with French food at warung prices and Da Margherita with classical Italian dishes, also very reasonably priced. Dahana, still a secret to most in Bali, was the surprise of this area. It is a private house and gallery that hosts a family-style Japanese restaurant in a garden setting. Almost hidden behind a white wall and private entrance.

Around the back of the Kerobokan Jail a totally authentic Hungarian restaurant to be found, Bistro Budapest, featuring Gulyasleves [Goulash] in every form. The famous soup combines beef, carrots and potato in a rich paprika broth, but there are also many forms with stewed meat; Sertesporkoct [pork], Paprikascsirke [chicken], Marhaporkoct [beef], and for the vegetarians, Gombaporkoct with mushrooms.

Renon, Denpasar, saw the opening of Kowloon, quickly changing its name to Feyloon. Genuine Cantonese food, specializing in seafood from the many live tanks around the walls.

Sanur continued its revival. New restaurants such as the Russian Slavyanka offer a new variety in fine dining [Shaved Frozen Venison with a pinch of salt, Caviar of every type, Chicken Livers with apple and onion and the Ukranian Borsh [a hearty soup of pork, potatoes cabbage, onion, carrot and beetroot]. SixPoint opened with a very International menu [they are an offshoot of Papas] that included Grilled Turkey Breast. Coriander has a range of Thai cuisine, Red and Green Curries, Tod Mun Pla [fish cakes], Yum Neau [seared marinated beef strips with cooling cucumber], among its International offerings. Piccadilly replaced the long gone Mykonos, more of a pub than restaurant. The Porch Café offers wonderful sandwiches, salads and small daily specials.

The revolution in Ubud slowed to a walk. No wonder with so many new places opening over the past 5 years. In Sanggingan is Man Maru opened, mainly Japanese [wonderful terryaki] with a few spicy Korean offerings [sliced lotus bulb]. Up on the hill at Penestanan was one of the finds of the year. Mendez, longtime personal chef for Warwick Purser, opened his own small warung offering Goat Legs and Beef Ribs, using old Yogya recipes, simmering for hours then marinating in Javanese spice pastes. Sweet tender meat, wonderful value in simple surroundings. $10 for two, what value!

Candi Dasa continued to slowly get its act together. The revamped Rama CandiDasa opened Garpu, under the direction of Patrick Chauchereau [ex Lola]. At that stage the food presented was quite exceptional, wonderful breads baked on the premises, pates en croute, etc. Now we wait with baited breath for the opening of Patricks new bistro restaurant in Seminyak, Feb 2008! A quiet achiever in the northern part of Candi Dasa was Aquaria, a New Zealand operation with just a choice of two dishes, entrée, main and dessert, for lunch and dinner [one always a vegetarian option] at their pleasant small boutique hotel. Simple food and great value in a pleasant relaxed location.

Amed continued its opening and re-opening of small locally operated warungs. The successful Wayans Warung opened a 2nd, Café Cest Bon, opposite Santai, TPC became Maharasti II, the rebuilt Vienna Beach now offers a smart restaurant with new immaculately clean kitchen, and some of the best beach views in the area. For something completely different another New Zealand operation began at Sails [eventually to be a part of the Horizon Resort], on the headland between Lipah Beach and Lean. It has sensational ocean views. Some Western [Steaks and Ribs], some Indo Chinese [Chicken Mandarin] but all cooked a little different from other local places, a cut above the rest!

Lovina saw the demise of a few and the arrival of a whole host of newbies; Amadeus has an Austrian influence, Wiener Schnitchels and Goulash on certain days. Down at the beach is a mall place with value, Tropis Bistro, with the chef and menu from the old Kwizien [Pate des Ardennes, Steak Rocquefort, etc.]. Surprising newcomer is Chonos, a BBQ restaurant with a difference! A tray of lava stones are inlaid into the top of smart wooden tables, seated above a gas ring. Order your meats and show what you can do. This place is going to become very popular! Congrats to people who dare to be different!

Once again, 2008 promises much. A new Thai restaurant, opposite Gado-Gado, and a French Bistro with one of Balis greatest chefs, both in Seminyak. To cap it all off the return of the prodigal one more time, small select Thai, Vietnamese and Malay Indian menus at Will Meyricks new venture [site of the old Esmerada] in Jln Petitenget, Kerobokan.

Bali just keeps on getting better, and the great value remains the same!

Gerry Williams
gerry@balieats.com

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RI welcomes Germans first in 2008

German couple Michel and Jennifer Franchon Bernard did not expect they would be greeted by a crew of friendly airport staff members and a Sundanese jaipongan dance troupe upon arriving at Soekarno-Hatta International Airport on New Year's Day.

"What a surprise. We are very happy. We never dreamed of this happening. I couldn't even sleep because of the holiday," Michel said.

Michel and his wife are visiting Indonesia for a two-week vacation. They said they would spend their first week in Jakarta and another week in Bali and Lombok.

Airport operator PT Angkasa Pura II picked the couple as the first air passengers to land at Soekarno-Hatta International Airport for the new year.

The couple, along with 256 others, arrived in Jakarta on a Singapore Airlines flight from Singapore, which landed at 10:30 a.m.

"The couple received the Indonesian government's acknowledgment as the first tourists to visit the country this year," said airport executive general manager Heriyanto.

The airport operator presented the couple with flower wreaths, PT Angkasa Pura paraphernalia, batik clothing and priority in visa-on-arrival arrangements as the first tourists for 2008.

PT Angkasa Pura president director Edi Haryoto said the special greeting was arranged in a bid to support the government's "Visit Indonesian Year 2008" program.

The government has targeted 7 million foreign visitors during "Visit Indonesia Year 2008". According to government data, 5.5 million foreigners visited Indonesia in 2006.

"Through this program, we are sure Indonesia will secure a good image in the eyes of other countries and attract more tourists to visit," Edi said.

He added the international airport received 31 million passengers in 2007, which hit the target mark.

"By reaching our target of 31 million passengers this year, we have proven we have strengthened our market position and that flying has become one of the most important modes of transportation here," Haryoto said. He said the number of passengers passing through the airport's terminals had increased from 30 million in 2006 to 31 million in 2007.

"With the support of the reconstruction of terminal III, we have targeted to reach 34 million passengers in 2008," Edi said.

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Bali Awarded as the World’s Best Island for 2007

Travel and Leisure magazine conducted a survey for their annual “World’s Best Island Awards” and for the 7th time, Bali of Indonesia emerged victorious despite the history of terrorism that engulfed the island a couple of years ago.

The World’s Best Island Award were based on: Natural Attractions, Activities/Sight, Restaurants/Food, People and Value.

Find out if our very own paradise island “Boracay” made it to the Top 10 after the jump…


TOP 10 Island Overall
(Rank 2007/Name/Score)

1 Bali-Indonesia 86.30
2 Maui 86.22
3 Kauai 85.92
4 Galapagos Islands 85.92
5 Santorini 85.82
6 Vancouver Island 85.17
7 Dalmatian Islands-Croatia 85.15
8 Phuket-Thailand 84.56
9 Hawaii 84.40
10 Great Barrier Reef Islands 83.70

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Visit Indonesia Year 2008 officially launched

Ministry of Culture and Tourism launched Visit Indonesia Year 2008 on Wednesday, with the main aim of luring up to 7 million foreign tourists and booking US$6.4 billion in foreign exchange income. The government held its first Visit Indonesia program in 1991, which was not particularly successful, increasing the number of foreign tourists by merely 400,000 from the year earlier, according to the Central Statistics Agency (BPS). BPS data show that in 1991, around 2.5 million foreign tourists visited the country, from 2.1 million in the previous year. (The Jakarta Post)

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