2008-01-11

Goa Gajah, The Elephant Cave - Part 2

In the center of it all emerges the enormous, monstrous face which ever since the early 1920 has intrigued visitors, and which still leaves us with many questions. It most probably is a witcha well known feature in Balinese thought-for the ear ornaments are a woman’s. The head defi- nitely recalls the witch Rangda’s mask from Balinese theater.









It has changed places with the kala-heads, well known from ancient Javanese monuments, where they are usually taken to be entrance protectors, looking fearful and clawing with pointed nails. Kala-heads, well known from ancient Javanese monuments, where they are usually taken to be entrance protectors, looking fearful and clawing with pointed nails. Kala-heads moreover function as celestial elements stressing the heavenly character of sanctuaries.

Rather than the Goa Gajah witch herself, Balinese monster heads on the gate ways to the temple compounds resemble East Javanese kalas. The Combinations of a monster’s head [of kala type] and hermit’s cave is also known in East Java. But again the candi’s entrance, it is version turned fully Balinese: a real witch-the more dehumanized for her pointed ears and the long tusk-like fangs which enclose the entrance – taken from theatricals and impressed upon the rock. It is difficult to say whether this specific witch should be considered “threatening”. A Balinese, for that matter, likes threatening temple decorations, which make him feel safe from the dangerous powers repelled by the ugly faces.

The witch seems to emerge with all her powers from the mysterious world enclosing her, and to which she belongs. A different interpretation has some mighty personage pushing apart the rock, as Siva Pasupati did to the cosmic mountain-thuns creating simultaneously the rival mountain Batur and Agung as well as the “split gate” or candi bentar.

The witch’s eyes curiously look sideways at the intruder, instead of peering straight ahead. And just as Rangda she seems to express, rather than impose, fear: “…the witch is not only a fear-inspiring figure, but…she is fear. Her hands with their long menacing fingernails do not clutch and claw at her victims… But the witch herself spreads her arms with palms out and her fingers flexed backward, in the gesture the Balinese call kapar, a term which they apply to the startled reaction of man who falls from a tree.”

In the 1950s a large piece of the witch’s head which had fallen down [spoiling its expression and resulting in erroneous interpretations] was restored to original place. Moreover, Mr. Krijgsman’s activities when working at the Goa Gajah eventually led to an interesting discovery.

Until 1954 several figurative spouts stood on either side of the cave’s entrance: one shaped as a two- handed Ganesa, the others [six] as the upper halves of female figures. They evidently came from some watering place in the neighborhood. In the early 1950s the spouts were provisionally placed around a small pond not far from the cave. Water came from a well via an old tunnel parallel to the rock as of old, provided with four manholes for cleaning purpose]. But the spout figures did not fit this situation because there was no connection between the busts and the pound’s border. In 1954 the flat courtyard in front of the cave was excavated. Rock bottom was struck around 50 c, without any soil finds other than the wall screen in front of the cave.

Acting on information received from locals, Krijgman widened the field of his clearing to include the ravine’s border south of the cave. There, it was said, he would find stone steps. The beginning of a three fold flight of steps was found, which after excavations led a former watering place. It consist of two separate partitions, probably one for women and one for men. Each formerly had been connected with a water system by three figurative spouts, shaped like standing nymphs. Only the lower parts of these figures were still in situ. They proved to the fit the upper parts found in front of the cave. The figures measure around 2 meters in height, without their lotus cushions. Thus the watering place could be restored, and its original functions re-established. The walls of the basins were renewed to construct an aesthetically satisfactory and work able bathing unit.

The back wall’s top is in a line with the courtyard in front of the cave. Part of the wall between the two groups of there spouting figures has not been restored; the narrow basin’s exact layout has not been ascertained. The Ganesa spout found with the other figures in front of the cave may have been situated in the middle basin and provisionally given a place there, albeit unconnected with the water system. The other spouting figures are fed from the original water system [east of the cave, used previously for the small pond], and produce their jets of water from lotus buds.

Despite the different in level there is apparently a direct relation between the cave and the watering place. The spouts are arranged in a line with the cave’s entrance passage.

The lower part of the figures was carved from the living rock. Presumably, masses of earth, and carved stones from walls or gateways, slipped down from the side of the stairs, eventually coverings part of the figures. On top of this piled up mass was situated a pura, which still partially exists. The loose upper parts apparently were taken away to be replaced in front of the cave. This must have occurred before the cave was first reported by Heyting and Niuwenkamp. In the neighborhood of the cave several objects were also located: a pot – shaped stone object, two cylindrical stupas, and some pinnacles.



The discovery of the watering place was one the greatest surprises of archaeological work in Bali after World War II. Hoping that site would be accepted as a regular bathing place, Mr. Krijigsman led the way by taking his daily bath there. Others happily followed his example until it was officially decided this ancient watering place was too sacred for such profane use.

One of the pavilions in front of the cave harbors an image of the Buddhist goddess Hariti. A child – devouring ogres, she was converted to Budhism, and became a child protectress; she is always accompanied by quite a number of children. She is found in sanctuaries in India as well as elsewhere in the Buddhist world [e.g. in Java in Candi Mendut’s antechamber]. In Bali she acquired an establish positions – perhaps through identifications with some indigenous legendary personage. In Both ancient and recent art she is picture as the female half of a poor couple-Pan Brayut and his wife Men Brayut- blessed with many children. The Goa Gajah Hariti was dated by Stutterheim around A.D 1000 [old Balinese Period].

Goa Gajah The Elephant Cave -Part1

The name Elephant Cave” perhaps originated with early visitors, mistakenly interpreting the monster”™s head as an elephant, or from villagers with the same misunderstanding. There may also be a (much order) connection with gajah.

A Balinese place name Lwa Gajah, “Å“Elephant Water,” is in fact mentioned in the 1365 Nagarakertagama as the seat of high Buddhist official. Since it occurs immediately after Badahulu (nearby Bedulu)this Lwa Gajah, named for some reason unknown to us, may very well have later given its name to the cave.

After his first visit to the site, Nieuwenkamp rightly had doubts about the head above the cave being an elephant”™s. Its face was badly damaged (hence the earlier reference to a “Å“mouth”). There was no sign of a trunk. Neither the ears nor the ear ornament suggested an elephant (or could the big eyes, of which only the right remains, give that idea!).

For some time the question remained unanswered, but a clearing of the rock”™s surface and recent restorations left no doubt about there being no elephant whatever in the rock wall. The cave lies south of the road, several metes bellows its level, and must be reached by a steep by steep path. Whereas for a long time since its discovery, the situation of the elephant Cave and the little pura in front of it had not notably changed, the 1954 excavation of the watering place gave a new character to the cave”™s surroundings.

The interior cave was first reconnoitered by, Nieuwenkamp, who paid no attention to bystanders”™ remarks that “Å“there was nothing inside.” The cave consists of a man made Tshaped excavation opening to the south. Recent research has revealed that there may have been a stone screen (in modern Bali called alingaling, comparable to the kelir protecting Javanese entrances ) in front of the cave”™s entrance.

Such screen safeguard dwellings and sanctuaries against evil influences. According to Balinese views, such influences may be expected from the south which the cave faces. In Central and South Bali south is kelod, “Å“towards the sea” and the Nether World, thus dangerous.

The entrance, 2 meters high and only 1 meter wide, leads to a very dark interior. The T”™s straight leg consist of a porch (2 meterwide) and a passage (1 meter wide) which together penetrate into the rock over a depth of around 9 meters. The T”™s crossbeam covers about 13.5 meters, to a width of 2.75 meters. The cave contains 15 niches hewn out of the wall. Some of them are along (those either side of the porch 2 meters to a depth of 90 cm; those in the passage 1.8 meters to a depth of 1 meter); they may have served as sleeping places.

Those along the lateral passage are short (seven niches along the north wallmaximum 126 cm high, around 100 cm wide, 135 cm deep-and two niches in the south wall-65 and 90 cm, to a depth of 75 cm) and may have served various purposes. The niches at the western and eastern extremities are 80 cm and 140 cm respectively, to a height of 80 cm each. Since Niuwenkamp”™s first report on the Elephant Cave there have been some pieces of sculpture in the end niches of the lateral passages: a four-armed Ganesha (height 105 cm) in the left wing, a set of three linggas (height 46.5cm) placed side by side on the same pedestal (length 113 cm) at the opposite end. Each of the linggas is surrounded by eigth smaller ones.

The whole set is hewn out of one piece of stone. Ganesha being Siva”™s elephantine son, and the lingga being Siva”™s distinctive, does not necessarily stamp the cave a Sivaistic sanctuary at all, it migt also have been a Buddhist one. To The right of the entrance are two vaguely engraved graffiti in the wall (inside), one above the other. The upper one seems older than the second (written in larger type), and recalls the writing of an A.D. 1074 inscription. The engravings read kamon (or kumon), and sahy (v) angsa. The meaning is not clear. If the writing is correctly dated (second half of the 11th century) the cave itself might have been made early in the same century. Sculptures found in the neighborhood cover a longer timespan.

The cave has been cut into a projecting part (height around 4.5 meters) of a rock wall whose surface was simultaneously straightened on either side, the more to emphasize the salient, which has a flat surface. We sometimes get the impression that the flat top of a recluse”™s cave was used for meditation. There is indeed a flight of steps in the rock (to the right); it does not, however, reach the salient”™s top. (there is a rectangular niche at the end of the steps). The situations is ambiguous.

The salient”™s front and lateral faces are entirely covered with sculpture suggesting stylized mountain scenery interspersed with large and forcefully modeled leaves. Animal, monsters, and anthropomorphic phantom climb the rocks, peep around corners, or comprise funny scenes, such as a bear (?) kept on a leash (or prodded with a long stick?) by a goblin, safely lying on a salient over the animal”™s back.

The animal kingdom is further represented by snake in its hole, another highly stylized snake (?), a tortoise, and some indistinct animal. Two little figures climb a rock: one, whose loincloth is sliding down, has genitals showing. In addition there are a monster”™s head with pointed ears, a lingga or broken statuette (?),etc. This baroque scene present a mysterious mountain forest, set apart from the civilized world of human beings”¦”¦to be continued

The Balinese Warung

Sidarta Wijaya

A warung is an Indonesian term for a small roadside stall that sells snacks, drinks and convenient household items. However, in Bali a warung is also the local coffee house, corner store and community meeting spot for neighbours to sit and exchange the latest news or gossip. Every village has at least a dozen warung’s that serve the daily needs of locals and anyone else who happens to pass by. Some warung’s are crude makeshift structures of bamboo and oddments of timber, while others may be a more permanent construction built as an afterthought on the outer perimeter of the family compound.


The general setup of a warung is fairly basic, consisting of aged wooden benches for customers to sit upon. Goods are displayed in glass canisters on shelves or spread across large plastic covered tabled that can be wiped down with a damp cloth. Fresh fruit sits on mismatched plates next to capped bottles of coca cola, the latest release of flavoured bubblegum and small bags of fried peanuts. Colourful packets of potato chips are strung up on lengths of wire hanging from the roof along with individual sachets of mosquito repellant, shampoo, washing powder and instant coffee. Most Balinese warung’s are a chaotic jumble of goods and sometimes even the vendor can’t remember where things are kept.

Owning a warung does not really generate a great income as most goods are sold for just a few hundred rupiah above the recommended retail price. But the main benefit for a warung proprietor is that the work is flexible and if it is attached to their home they can go about their other daily household chores in between sales. Opening a small warung is a popular means of employment for married women as they can literally ‘take care of the shop’ whilst suckling a newborn infant or prepare the numerous offerings required for Balinese Hindu ceremonies and rituals.As the Balinese habitually snack throughout the course of the day, the warung is the ideal spot to satiate one’s appetite with a sweet sticky rice cake and a tall glass of aromatic coffee. Children come to buy cheap candies and imitation soda drinks cooled with chunks of ice. When the afternoon draws to a close the menfolk flock to their local warung clutching their prize fighting roosters to socialize, discuss recent events, analyze the headlines of the daily newspaper and share bottles of warm beer. Many warung’s provide customers with a small platform-like seat constructed from strips of bamboo where a group of men can sit cross-legged in their sarongs to play chess, dominoes and traditional card games.

Warung’s in rural villages often stay open until late night and served alcoholic beverages. These potent wines, brewed from fermented rice and palm juice, are a cheap alternative to imported liquors. The warung’s that serve such beverages are especially popular at the weekends with teenage youth in areas where nightlife entertainment is limited.

Warung’s also function as convenience stores and prevent unnecessary trips to the market for items such as cooking oil, sugar, shampoo or dish washing detergent. Most goods are sold in single use sachets and packets, although this excess of plastic is playing havoc with Bali’s waste control system. Many warung’s these days either have a television set or radio blaring in the background to help the seller relieve the long hours between sales.

The most unique aspect of the traditional Balinese warung is that it operates on an honour system. Customers help themselves to the array of snacks on display and the charge is calculated after consumption. This is a sign of trust; nevertheless, a shrewd proprietor will always keep a sharp eye out for just how many packets of shrimp crackers or shelled peanuts have been eaten.

In an era where shopping malls and trendy cafes have sprung up all over the island, there still remains a place in Balinese society for the humble warung. For many there is a sense of comfort in sitting at the warung with friends and neighbours in familiar surroundings that are void of pretentious consumerism.

Photo by Wijaya

Guwang The Traditional Art Market

If you came to the Balinese Island to go on holiday, more incomplete if not bringing the present as souvenir/the souvenir. Especially Balinese diligence. Many places that could be visited by you to get this diligence. Among them you could come to the traditional artistic markets like the Kumbasari art Market in Street Gajah Mada - Denpasar, Sukawati the traditional art market,Gianyar, Ubud the traditional art market-Gianyar art, Kuta the traditional art market- Badung, and Guwang the traditional art market -Gianyar Bali.

Shopped in the art market will give the memory and the experience trsendiri. Here your expertise in bargaining the thing will in the test, be compared if you shopped in Art shop or the supermarket that has had banderol [fix price] remained chose and paid in the cashier.

When you decided to come to the traditional Balinese art market, to try to come to the art market Guwang that was located in the village guwang, the Sukawati Sub district, Gianyar Regency. This traditional artistic market began to be opened at 8.00 wita to the hour 18.00.wita, his place then really was easy to be covered because indeed was in the main road headed Ubud, sukawati, Mas, and the city Gianyar.

The area parked that was quite wide made the atmosphere be not too chaotic, you even relaxed shopped and enjoyed the atmosphere and the environment around the market.

The craftsman at the same time as the trader in this market around 500 people, so imaginable how many the artistic kind traditional that in sold in this market.

Beginning with socks, the statue, bad cover, the painting, the bag, complexities, relief, etc. The price that was offered then was competitive enough, moreover if you had the expertise in bargaining the thing. You felt you were challenged, please came and was safe to adventuring

Bali Predominate Craft Export

The creativity of Balinese craft in creating various artistic craft to fulfill the demand of international market has already well known by the overseas importer. Kasubdin of foreign trade of Bali Trading department, Ni Wayan Kusumawathi said “various craft of Bali have a great demand in international market, especially in Uni Eropa, United States, Japan and some other Asian countries”

She affirm that realization value of various craft of Bali on January to July 2007 period was 138.814.257,19 US dollars, it raised 14, 20 percents from the same period at 2006 which was only 121.548.851,09 US dollars. Further, she tells that these acquirement of exchange foreign come from 17 commodity. Silver ornament, wood statue, ceramics, bamboo craft, waxy craft and painting sold to 79 countries in the world. Various commerce of art goods made in Balinese craft maker still predominate crafting export to international markets. As a prove, the average of Bali export commodity value keep increasing.

She explained more that the commodity of music equipment increasing until 105,73 percent and the value of wood craft export increase 29,18 US dollars from 43.445.011,81 US dollars. While commodity of silver craft in form of rings, necklace, circle and ear stud during January to July 2007 period have yielded foreign exchange 1.403.018,70 US dollars or rising 3.3210,03 percent compared to the same period in 2006which only yielded foreign exchange 41.011,60 US dollars. PT

Tourism is The Commander; Sound from Behind of Bali Shimmer

By IBM. Dharma Palguna
Tourism is commander. That is what people said, not us. We listen what people said then we imitating. If we want to honest, Bali is leading to The Commander inauguration. And we proud of it, cause we have been desperately waiting a leader figure for along time. Without a leader in our life, we are like an orchestra without conductor. Our music life is no other that chaos it self. The tourism commander, we hope could lead us out of this multidimensional crisis. 

And for that purpose, we are all ready to sacrifice more for the commander. Besides sacrificing is the point/core of our school education, tourism has given us international identity as human with high culture, unique custom, paradise of the world, island of thousand deities, natural artist, and more other remarkable epithet. Those international identities that w-e got, and we used as a basic to build a new civilization which is unclear of the form. But we stand up proudly. We are ready to become a teacher for other region in this country which is still working hard to build their tourism business. Except tourism, what else we still belonging to be given to the world?

We owe imagery to the glorious tourism. Because before tourism coming, our ancestor known as savage society, which were burning widows remained husband death, exile or separate a mother bearing twin baby of boy and girl, throwing member of a village out of the village, burning other people’s property and also war between country sides in physical and mystique. Alhamdulilah (thanks god), tourism has scraped off that bad imagery. So, with all the potencies we have been increasingly saleable to sell. We must pay that imagery debt at this present. And we will. Because paying our debt is part of our teaching from our parent since we were child through various ritual method.

For us, tourism has become a teacher. It’s a real teacher, not just an imaginary teacher. We learn foreign language, new culture; new standardize ethics and manner until new taste of tongue. Tourism also often offers a new sight of life, a kind of adventurer spirituality. Whereas our original spirituality is a spirituality people live permanently, with a clear space of boundary and very tightening. The adventurer spirituality has enriched our agrarian spirituality. It can be seen from the changing of our perspective in life. We start thinking now. But no matter how far our thinking has flied, finally we must return to custom den. It was where we born and we are thought to choose our die. And before death, we will surely pay our debt to the tourism teacher.

According the custom, a debt to a teacher must be paid with devotes which the point is making the teacher happy. Ethically, relation between teachers his student based on affection and obedient. Teacher gives us affection abundance and mind protection. We feel safe under teacher’s protection. Because all responsibilities we could easily give it to the teacher wisdom. Such as; environmental damaged and ethics declines is not our responsibility, it is the responsibility of the teacher.

Student pays his debt with a total obedient. We show our obedient by not stepping across his authority. If he wanted more amount of land, wet or dry, we will deliver it without thinking twice. It is really harmonious relationship. its hardly in harmony and doesn’t leave space for con- flict. Coincidentally, we are men who love peace very much and living avoids conflicts. There for, our relationship with tourism as a pair of lover who has just made love for the first time. Everything is beautiful. Nothing could separate both of us.

Honestly, the relation of teacher- tourism with us as student is not going in balance. Strong and weak. The strong one pulls the weak one. Of course, the teachertourism was stand in strong position. Our weakness that make it strong and getting stronger. We keep trying to make him happy. We submit our heritage land, river, mount bank, chastity, holiness and etc. We have done total devoting; there is no more space remain which was not explored yet by him. Later, we would not endow this land now still exist to our kids, but proudly we would endow a commander who at the same time as a teacher called tourism. Hopefully, our descendants receive it proudly and appreciate our tiring devotion who would be ancestor at the future.

Until nowadays, teacher-tourism still love to receive devotions. Hence, he abundance award in form of material prosperity. By that material prosperity we renovate our holy building, we also make a bigger and various ritual. It is really harmonic relationship of teacher and student. That all we know about it’s up to now. We don’t know if there are many things hidden behind it. Cause we are not a designer. We are not investor, we are just worker. Some small conflict happens. Each con- flict we solve it prudently and very adult. We give in for miraculous utterance: for the shake of tourism.

Never asking for how long it harmonies could hang on. In our environment has born people with a short thinking. Just enjoying what present. Leave it future to the “time” Isn’t true that time is deity, Kala deity who we scare to and for that reason we worship to?

There is teacher keep moving and there are permanent teacher. Teacher that keep moving we call as kuntul anglayang, flying stork. He is downward in a fertile and beautiful rice field. After satisfied he continue flying toward other new promising rice field. Searching the tracks of flying stork is like looking for a day before the day which has elapsed. The big trouble will emerge when in the future the teacher-tourism has been inconvenient again at us and leave us to become teacher in other place. We will not be able to his responsibility. Cause he of course has resided and don’t know where. We are going to be like a student that lost his teacher in fact, we don’t graduate the lesson yet.

Word of “guru” in our language meant “heavy”. Living with teacher-tourism is difficult. When he died it would be heavier. Its from a heavy condition toward other heavier. So that the journey of our destiny. As a good student, we hardly depend on teacher. A critics student commonly hated by the teacher. Thanks god we are not critics student but a good student.

Beside as the teacher, tourism has rolled as a parent feeding to their children. In our custom, a child is claimed to obey his parent, not only when his parent still alive but also after his parent die. As a good child we have shown up devotes to tourism. We have never been disaffected him. A disaffected child would be cursed the old fellow. One or two child has ever tried to be critical. They didn’t criticize tourism but the investor. But we rarely know how investor shut them up. They work like a ghost. They are existing but invisible. Suddenly an area has been their authority.

And suddenly we are forbidden entering it. Although passing through it, we have been considered to bother comfort of foreigner. We never know what to do while facing “ghost” like that. Coincidently, there many real “ghost” in our island. There for the investor could be easily to camouflaging their self. It confusing us, which spirit we must submit this offering. We nearly could not differentiate between the real and the imitation.

It is unavoidable. We have deep debt to teacher-tourism. And the teacher has become the commander what else we can do except being his soldier. A soldier duty is fighting against all enemies groaning power the area of glorious tourism. The commander has shown enemies that should be watched. Any social distortion, no matter how small, is the enemy that potentially annoying tourism blood. Hence, social distortion not only being watched but also depressed and hidden. It is just example. There are many more enemies that was considered could threatening the royal of the commander. We will not enlist it. Because, its anxious we entangling people we recognized.

But don’t worry. We are enough knowing our self. Few of us that were alienated from the shimmer of tourism, it will not threatening the tourism continuity (ajeg). Nevertheless we create a poem about loneliness. We also never publicize I, like as pamphlet. We just keep it under our pillow. We do not want to annoy the feeling of our family and neighbors that their kitchens smoke from it. They will fulminate and angry. This life has been difficult, so don’t make it worse. Tourism just a field of economical thing, that a field to get money for their family. It is not concerning ideology. Not tradition, culture, civilization, “keajegan” and continuity. Those things are the business of “abstract” people that only understand what they do not need.

One only in awhile, we would real those poem. Small voice. Just in the deep of heart. We absolutely realize, what we really facing is not the commander. But our own family, our own neighbors. We are not willing to fight against our family and our neighbors. Hence, we let the commander as it is. Do we fail? No, we don’t. We just find. Does the commander win? No, he doesn’t. He is usual. We are a couple of lover who never bored to make love. On the sea, on the lake, on the river, on the hill, on the mount, in the temple, in market, every where we passing we make love. Not a piece of bomb could separate our hugging. Its not an erotic island but a home of tourist.

2008-01-07

Flaw within the Tourism

The development of the tourism industry in Bali is getting better after having crisis due to the first and the second Bali bomb blast. But the flaw within the tourism itself has occured and still occur before and after the bomb blast. It happens towards the tourists (domestic, foreign, and local tourists). They usually get unfair treatment.

This is the flaw within the tourism:
From the price view point the tourist, especially the foreigners are given a very high price. The art shops could inflate the price from 100% up to 400%. Wow! Maybe it will be fine for the rich tourists but not all of the tourists can accept that condition. It would be more reasonable to give normal price because it will give pleasure and comfort for them who are going to do shopping.

From the service point of view, the domestic and local tourists usually get less quality of services even though they pay the same price for it as the foreign tourists. However, it shows that there is customers’ segregation between the domestic/local tourists and the foreign ones.

Those such treatment are often experienced by the tourists. I met an Australian citizen who stays in Bali that sighed the expensive price of a new year trumpet which is offered by the vendor. He said, “He gave me an iflated price just because I have this face.” He pointed at his face while speaking. It just because he is a white person he got double price. The other complaint came from a friend of mine from Yogya, Middle Java. He was complaining the service of a hotel in Kuta where he stayed during his holiday. Everytime he was going to have lunch or dinner, the waiter/waitress always came and asked him to show his lucnh/dinner card and he had to pay in advance. Meanwhile they did not do the same thing to the foreign tourists.

Indirectly, these treatment create discrimination among people who are involved in the tourism industry. Wouldn’t it be better if the tourism goes fair and reasonable?
So, the flaw within the tourism can be abolished.